|New Sandstone Area
Donkey On My Mind
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Sangdahl, Bechler, Moir|
|Season: ||Spring, summer, fapp|
|Page Views: ||1,726|
|Submitted By: ||JJ Schlick on Nov 6, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Another picture dug up from the past. Climber: Rh...
|Please note that the New Sandstone area is currently closed to climbing.|
Donkey On My Mind is the clean cut overhanging dihedral on the left side of the wall. It is the best protected .12 in the park, as well as one of the purest crack climbs. The start takes some effort and leads quickly to the crux which will force you to drop the clutch/crotch. While cranking the feet up to your ears may be easier for shorter folks, the near everlasting reach above will keep things even. While this route is a one trick pony, it is also one of the best tricks you will do.
A few cams (a #1 camalot for the top), some medium wires.
|Comments on Donkey On My Mind
|By Ed Wright|
Jun 13, 2007
It should be noted that this area is still off limits to climbers so be careful and don't get caught.
From: Madison, WI
Sep 8, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
Cool route with a really hard crux!
|By Alex A|
Jun 3, 2009
One the safest 5.12 leads in the park, my only 5.12 lead at the lake, but not clean, it was closed so after, never got the redpoint,
they say this route got 1 to 2 letter grades easer, after sticky rubber came out,