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Donkey On My Mind
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 10
votes
Routes in 2. New Sandstone Area
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Donkey On My Mind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fuck Aid T,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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High Traverse T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Kingsbury Cruise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kingsbury Non-Alcoholic Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Laser Beam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shaking Hands With The Chimp T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Wet Paper Bag T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 43.41158, -89.67995 |
| FA: | Sangdahl, Bechler, Moir |
| Page Views: | 3,699 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Nov 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Donkey On My Mind is the clean cut overhanging dihedral on the left side of the wall. It is the best protected .12 in the park, as well as one of the purest crack climbs despite the lack of much jamming. The start takes some effort and leads quickly to the crux which will force you to drop the clutch/crotch. While cranking the feet up to your ears may be easier for shorter folks, the near everlasting reach above will keep things even. While this route is a one trick pony, it is also one of the best tricks you will do.
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