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Bath Rock - West
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Colossus S 
Donini's Crack T 
Gemini S 
Loch Ness Monster S 
Maximum Impact T,TR 
Private Idaho T 
Rollercoaster S,TR 
Scream Machine T,S 
Taranula S 
Whip, The S 

Donini's Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Lowe, 1967
Page Views: 3,899
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2004

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Jim Brink onsighting Donini's...

Description 

This is a classic tough roof crack on the back side of Bath Rock. Many try this route, but but few succeed. It is probably a little bit of a sandbag.

Start below the obvious roof crack. You can clip a bolt on Gemini 5.12a near the beginning. Work up under the roof and fire in some thin hand gear. If you are tall, you can get a no hands sit down rest below the roof.

Jam the thin hand crack through the roof. (tape!!) Face holds can be found on the left and right. Picking the right moves and getting your feet in the crack, will gain a rest above the roof. An easier hand crack leads to the bolt anchor on the sport climb to the left.

I heard a rumor that Donini came back and solo'ed this thing in his 60's.

Protection 

Hand size cams, nuts...


Photos of Donini's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Parks cops a no-hands rest prior to the crux...
Chris Parks cops a no-hands rest prior to the crux...

Comments on Donini's Crack Add Comment
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By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A little bit of a sandbag? I should get frequent flyer miles for this one.
By alpinista83
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 28, 2010

One of the toughest 10cs I've ever tried to free. Ran out of juice and took a huge whip off the roof. Protect before trying to jam up (green .75s- I put in two of 'em- they won't obstruct the necessary jamming).

Rumor is true. Straight from the horse's mouth. Ran into Jim climbing in City of Rocks.

Great climb. Do it! And clip that .75 with a short draw.
By Ben Folsom
Sep 20, 2010

Awesome route! Glad I finally decided to do it. Intimidating and steep, but it is all there. I agree with the previous comments that it is a bit tough for the grade.
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 20, 2010

I tried this route in 2007 (My 1st of 2 trips to the City). And had lead Crack of Doom the day before. I got soundly rebuffed at the crux! A critical and subtle change in hand position makes it possible...otherwise as I had hit it...impossible! Hey, every climb is a 5.14 if you do it wrong!
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 7, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Burly. Tape up for the crux and don't forget heel hooks, breathing (or you will get very winded) and all kinds of crazy body contortions.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I strongly recommend bringing a single #4. I was tipped off to the 4 by a dude nearby and was super happy to have it since it was my first piece (which occurs about 50 feet off the deck). This + a second piece in a slightly higher pod gave me some peace of mind to commit to the thought-provoking and steep moves getting under the roof. Also, these placements are not obvious from the ground.

Green Camalots can be put in the roof itself but I was able to place a gold much higher and that made me happier. So I would not really call this "a thin hand crack".

Heel hooking may work for some but is not required (or even necessarily most effective) beta.