Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Offwidth City
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black-n-Stacks T 
Done Lubin' T 
Mayor, The T 
Ralph T 

Done Lubin' 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Craig Luebben and Jimmie Dunn
Page Views: 1,556
Submitted By: Shanti on Jun 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


One of Craig Leubben's favorite offwidths! Pitch 1: One of the best offwidth pitches in the desert. Clean and classic. Hands through a small roof to a challenging 5.11 squeeze chimney. Pitch 2: Tight 5.10 squeeze chimney. Pitch 3: 5.10a Hands to fingers to top of the pillar. Pitch 4: 5.10+ Hands to offwidth. Pitch 5: 4rth class. Descent: Down climb Pitch 4 and rap the route.


First wide crack to the right of the main prow. One route to the right of The Mayor.


Set of BD cams with doubles on #3s and #5s, 3-4x #6s, 3x Green Bros, 4x Blue Bros. Two or three 9" Valley Giants are useful on Pitch 1.

Comments on Done Lubin' Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ray Lovestead
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Whoa, this is a big girl indeed.

Very important gear beta for the second pitch. Save your blue big bros for the 'top'. VG9s do not work for the 'last' 20 feet or so. If you fell, you'd fall onto tipped out VG9s and big bros...

Also, I say 'top' because as you crest what looks like the end, you realize that you have a lot longer to go. You have to go deep in and can place some 5s, 6s, and then build an anchor higher up. Second pitch is >100 feet. Bring two ropes or a 60m.

This thing needs anchors where it crests so people can safely being their second up and/or rap.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!