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The Headwall
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Donamatrix 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: M. Rangel
Page Views: 4,241
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Terry Woolston topping on pitch 1

Description 

This is a water streak, holds are fairly stable but climb softly anyways. Pebbles rain down from the top of the Headwall and continue down eventually. Mostly knobs and edges in the matrix make for good holds. Stay low in the traverse to the left on the first pitch to keep the bolt above you. Use a long sling.

Location 

To find route, walk south about 200yds along trail at base of Headwall til you come to alcove and shallow dihedral with a line of bolts up a waterstreak. From Echo Canyon parking lot, look along headwall to tallest portion, a guano-covered pinnacle marks the left side of the climb.

Protection 

Many bolts, some 1/2" x 7" with a two bolt anchor first pitch; Rap hangers on left for last pitch.


Photos of Donamatrix Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The whole view of the climb, with Praying Monk jus...
BETA PHOTO: The whole view of the climb, with Praying Monk jus...
Rock Climbing Photo: The two pitch Donamatrix follows the water stain
BETA PHOTO: The two pitch Donamatrix follows the water stain
Rock Climbing Photo: Donamatrix
Donamatrix
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle headed up on pitch 2 (3-24-14)
Kyle headed up on pitch 2 (3-24-14)

Comments on Donamatrix Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 4, 2016
By Spahle
From: Mesa, Arizona
Apr 23, 2007

One of the belay rappel bolts on top of pitch two is starting to come loose. All three in my party rapped on it and it held fine but I wouldn't trust it by itself. The other bolt is still solid. Other then that it's a great route.
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Aug 25, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As of yesterday...8/24 I dont know that I would trust either of those bolts...The loose one is pretty loose now and the other seems to be taking the brunt ... be careful and access the situation for yourself. But the rap for the Spicebox is a hop skip and a jump away...
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Mar 31, 2009

I haven't done this in a couple of years and so I went back to see what the problem with the bolts was. Maybe someone fixed a suspect bolt, they seemed the same to me. None of the anchors was loose, they were in the condition I left them in. If you have some specific worry, send me an email.
By Homer Patterson
Nov 24, 2010

I thought this climb was a fun, well-protected lead but I found both anchor bolts were loose and I didn't feel safe using them.
By Jon Ruth
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 17, 2011

Great route. Fun and challenging. As of last week both of the anchors were a bit loose at the top of p2. The right one more so. Next time somebody goes up, bring some epoxy.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 9, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fantastic movement but hard to choose a star rating since the rock is so loose. The first anchor seemed bomb-proof but didn't want to trust my life to the second; both bolts have space around them and the right side bolt wiggles. Decided to hike over to the anchor on Headwall.
By Roger Goldstein
Apr 5, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I say the first pitch goes at 5.9 if your 5'5" due to some reachy moves in the center of the pitch. Otherwise it's classic scary assed Camelback climbing!
By Tim H.
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 18, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think this line is best when done as one long pitch. Then it is 16 bolts long, fun. 24" Runners on bolts 3-5, don't clip the anchors on the top of P1, and sling the first bolt on p2(you can clip this pretty much from the ledge anyways).

Top pitches anchors seemed fine to me a few days ago.
By brettzenor
From: Scottsdale
Feb 9, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super classic route, did it for the first time yesterday. A bit of precision is required on the first pitch but nothing was loose. The second pitch is super fun too but I had a crimper or two pull out on me. There's a big jug about half way up the second pitch that you can dyno to from the left side of the route, so if you're feeling up to it! All bolts were great! Including belay bolts on both pitches.
By KyleK2
From: Phx/Flg AZ
Mar 8, 2014

Fun route to link both pitches. If you extend the first bolt of P2 with a long sling helps rope drag. Also great way to access the gargoyle wall.
By JP Griffith
From: Denver, CO
Jan 1, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I don't know if this is the same issue as others have said (as some of you guys said nothing is wrong), but I definitely don't feel safe rapping off this guy. The right anchor is obviously wiggling its way out and with not much effort it moves significantly.

Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors on top of pitch two. You can see the right...
Anchors on top of pitch two. You can see the right anchor is starting to come out and it does wiggle with not much effort. Scary to rap off!
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jan 1, 2016

Umm. It isn't wiggling out. Looks the same as when I put it in. Unfortunately I started using glue ins after this route. But the 8" x 1/2" bolt hole was dug out a bit much when the hole was started. The edge of the hole will always be loose. That is a big problem here, the rock is weak and crumbles, so I used a longer than usual bolt.

I will someday get out there and replace with glue ins, since nobody else has stepped up except to point out the disaster waiting to happen. Soon.

If it bothers anyone else, come talk to me and you and I can replace it. Otherwise, I'll check it again. Looks like they have loosened a bit.
By JP Griffith
From: Denver, CO
Jan 4, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely wasn't trying to complain, I just wanted to clear things up with a photo and my perspective on it. I would've absolutely gone back up and used some epoxy on it myself, but I was on a 3-day trip from Colorado and didn't see any of these 'warnings' until I got down off the climb to put my post up. I'm not quite sure what constitutes as loose, but I've never had an anchor wiggle on me like that. But then again this was my first time climbing in AZ and it's definitely clear the the rock at camelback is marginal.

Manuel, thank you so much for your service for putting these in! It is by no means a serious hazard and anybody not comfortable rapping off can walk a few yards and use some other anchors. I'm sure whenever anyone gets a chance to make these anchors a little more secure (even if just for visual comfort) it would be greatly appreciated.

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