Donamatrix 5.8+
| 2,764 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | M. Rangel |
| Submitted By: | manuel rangel on Mar 13, 2006 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: The two pitch Donamatrix follows the water stain
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This is a water streak, holds are fairly stable but climb softly anyways. Pebbles rain down from the top of the Headwall and continue down eventually. Mostly knobs and edges in the matrix make for good holds. Stay low in the traverse to the left on the first pitch to keep the bolt above you. Use a long sling.
Location To find route, walk south about 200yds along trail at base of Headwall til you come to alcove and shallow dihedral with a line of bolts up a waterstreak. From Echo Canyon parking lot, look along headwall to tallest portion, a guano-covered pinnacle marks the left side of the climb.
Protection Many bolts, some 1/2" x 7" with a two bolt anchor first pitch; Rap hangers on left for last pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The whole view of the climb, with Praying Monk jus...
|
Donamatrix
|
Steeper than it looks. Tim nearing the top of pit...
|
Little bit of stemming half way up the shorter sec...
| | |
By Spahle
From: Mesa, Arizona
Apr 23, 2007
| One of the belay rappel bolts on top of pitch two is starting to come loose. All three in my party rapped on it and it held fine but I wouldn't trust it by itself. The other bolt is still solid. Other then that it's a great route. |
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Aug 25, 2008
rating: 5.8
| As of yesterday...8/24 I dont know that I would trust either of those bolts...The loose one is pretty loose now and the other seems to be taking the brunt ... be careful and access the situation for yourself. But the rap for the Spicebox is a hop skip and a jump away... |
By manuel rangel
Mar 31, 2009
| I haven't done this in a couple of years and so I went back to see what the problem with the bolts was. Maybe someone fixed a suspect bolt, they seemed the same to me. None of the anchors was loose, they were in the condition I left them in. If you have some specific worry, send me an email. |
By Homer Patterson
Nov 24, 2010
| I thought this climb was a fun, well-protected lead but I found both anchor bolts were loose and I didn't feel safe using them. |
By Jon Ruth
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 17, 2011
| Great route. Fun and challenging. As of last week both of the anchors were a bit loose at the top of p2. The right one more so. Next time somebody goes up, bring some epoxy. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 9, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Fantastic movement but hard to choose a star rating since the rock is so loose. The first anchor seemed bomb-proof but didn't want to trust my life to the second; both bolts have space around them and the right side bolt wiggles. Decided to hike over to the anchor on Headwall. |
By Roger Goldstein
Apr 5, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| I say the first pitch goes at 5.9 if your 5'5" due to some reachy moves in the center of the pitch. Otherwise it's classic scary assed Camelback climbing! |
By Tim Heid
From: Tempe, Az
Apr 18, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| I think this line is best when done as one long pitch. Then it is 16 bolts long, fun. 24" Runners on bolts 3-5, don't clip the anchors on the top of P1, and sling the first bolt on p2(you can clip this pretty much from the ledge anyways).
Top pitches anchors seemed fine to me a few days ago. |
|
RSS Feed
23 more...
Slideshow
