Don Quixote 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Jackson – 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Robert MacKinnon on Jun 18, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Don Quixote
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Description This mega-classic starts right of a small bush, goes up the face to a high first bolt and then heads left to the right facing corner. Climb the corner, pull the roof, and head up and right to the anchors on the ledge. The crux is near the roof.
Location At the obvious right-facing dihedral with the roof.
Protection Bolts with anchors.
BETA PHOTO: James Aikman reaching the crux
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Some real thank god hand holds up there!
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Looking up the skirt
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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.11d
| Amazing route but some of the bolts are pretty rusty. |
By David Kozak
Mar 18, 2010
rating: 5.11c
| This and El Bolota are perhaps the finest routes in Virgin Canyon. |
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 14, 2011
| I really liked this route, it is a trad feeling sport route, if that makes any sense. I should have onsighted it. Instead, I didn't. Getting suckered into the jugs over the arete will screw you. It was one of the finer routes I did in EPC. See spot run. |
By Hank the Tank
From: Golden, CO
Jan 15, 2011
| Oh Zeke, the jugs on the arete is exactly where you wanna be, I thought. |
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 19, 2011
| I thought so too, Hank, the trouble being if you go too far up the jugs (well-chalked, btw), you have a much harder transition back into the dihedral before the roof. Then again, I didn't onsight the rig. |
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 10, 2012
| AWH Sum! Great corner climb with some gnarly stemming. Its tempting to pull onto the arete but force yourself to climb up the blank corner because it is so worth it. Well Bolted and beautiful climbing! Enjoy pulling the roof on hero holds after blank foot work most of the way up. A Classic in my book!! |
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