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Lower Virgin
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Don Quixote 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Jackson 1989
Page Views: 2,912
Submitted By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Looking up the skirt


This mega-classic starts right of a small bush, goes up the face to a high first bolt and then heads left to the right facing corner. Climb the corner, pull the roof, and head up and right to the anchors on the ledge. The crux is near the roof.


At the obvious right-facing dihedral with the roof.


Bolts with anchors.

Photos of Don Quixote Slideshow Add Photo
James Aikman reaching the crux
BETA PHOTO: James Aikman reaching the crux
Don Quixote
BETA PHOTO: Don Quixote
Some real thank god hand holds up there!
Some real thank god hand holds up there!
Small person beta right around the cruxy part. My ...
BETA PHOTO: Small person beta right around the cruxy part. My ...

Comments on Don Quixote Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Amazing route but some of the bolts are pretty rusty.
By David Kozak
Mar 18, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This and El Bolota are perhaps the finest routes in Virgin Canyon.
By Colonel Mustard
Jan 14, 2011

I really liked this route, it is a trad feeling sport route, if that makes any sense. I should have onsighted it. Instead, I didn't. Getting suckered into the jugs over the arete will screw you. It was one of the finer routes I did in EPC. See spot run.
By Hank Caylor
From: Golden, CO
Jan 15, 2011

Oh Zeke, the jugs on the arete is exactly where you wanna be, I thought.
By Colonel Mustard
Jan 19, 2011

I thought so too, Hank, the trouble being if you go too far up the jugs (well-chalked, btw), you have a much harder transition back into the dihedral before the roof. Then again, I didn't onsight the rig.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 10, 2012

AWH Sum! Great corner climb with some gnarly stemming. Its tempting to pull onto the arete but force yourself to climb up the blank corner because it is so worth it. Well Bolted and beautiful climbing! Enjoy pulling the roof on hero holds after blank foot work most of the way up. A Classic in my book!!
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