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Don Juan is an easy route located just to the left of the point where the Access Fund trail meets the wall. Look for an alcove of sorts with a _pillar_ in the back. The pillar is about seven feet high with an obvious horizontal seam.
Using the cracks on either side of the pillar, climb to the top and continue up the dihedral (good cracks all of the way up). At the top of the dihedral, there is a small ledge. From here, continue up and right to a second larger ledge and the belay anchors. Good way to end the day before heading back down the trail.
Rappel with a single rope from the anchors.
Small to medium sized cams and a set of stoppers. Rappel anchors at the top.
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Okay climb. The crux moves were just getting on top of the short pillar -- arguably a 5.7 move. After that it's just boulder hoping up the crack. Worth doing, but not nearly as fun in my opinion as Beginner's Luck to the left 50 ft.