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Don Juan Spire

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Don Juan T 
Unknown (Southwest Arete) T 
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Yesterday's News Variation T 

Don Juan Spire Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 250'
Page Views: 3,094
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Sep 9, 2007
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Joe Slansky on the summit of Don Juan Spire. Lumi...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

When looking at the Crow's Head Spires from the rappel point on the rim, Don Juan Spire is on the left and Luminous Being Spire is on the right.

First climbed in ’83 by Robert Warren, Steve Wood, and Jeff Web, Don Juan now offers at least 5 routes to the summit ranging from 5.9 to difficult aid. Regardless of what route you choose, expect some spicy climbing somewhere between you and the summit 250 feet above.

Getting There 

See the approach description under the main Bird's View Butte - Crow's Head Spires page.

Climbing Season

For the Island In The Sky area.

Weather station 4.4 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Don Juan Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at pitch 2 from the summit.

Yesterday's News Variation 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Don Juan Spire
Pitch 1:Starting on the south ridge, Scramble up easy rock aiming for a cleaner crack, climb the cleaner crack until you can step right onto a belay ledge with a bolted anchor 5.9, 120'.Pitch 2:Face climb straight left 20'+ to a crack (mind the rope drag). Climb up cracks to a small roof, climb up and left over the roof. Climb the offwidth to easier OW to a large ledge(possible belay or continue to the summit). From the ledge follow the crack angling up and left to the summit. Climb over the s...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Don Juan Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning light on the Crow's Head Spires.
Morning light on the Crow's Head Spires.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the spires...
Approaching the spires...

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