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King Otto's Castle
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Don Genaro Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Woody Stark on Oct 20, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Gene contemplating Don Genero

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Description 

You'll find this route 150' or so to the left of "King Otto's Castle". It's an obvious left leaning crack. Your stomach sould be empty before you head up. I had difficulty getting decent pro in to start. A tri-cam finally worked. Back up whatever you place; getting started will get your attention; and it doesn't let up.


Protection 

Standard rack with tri-cams



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By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Feb 9, 2004

There is a nice "ledge" about 2/3 of the way up. However, it isn't as big as it looks from the ground even though it will give you a break. A bomber belay can be built at the top. I liked this route a lot. Kevin Currigan

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 26, 2005

great route. The start is a bit run out, but stick with it. A bit stout for the grade.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 28, 2010

I soloed the crack about 40ft right of this route thinking it was Don Genaro Crack. Any idea what it is? Felt about 5.8, 5.8+

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Feb 21, 2012

A great diagonal crack with good jams and lieback moves. I used face features at the crux. Well worth your time.

By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Nov 21, 2013

very fun crack. good and plentiful pro. btw, the last juggy plate at the top of the crack flexes. didn't feel that on the lead up, but saw while belaying on top, when second pulled on that. pretty key exit hold. careful on the pull