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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallow Tail T,S 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

Dominion 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gene Drake, Dan Hart, Jim Orey 1972
Page Views: 3,270
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Just another über aesthetic Tahoe classic...

Description 

Fun and easy crack climbing leads to a groove with a thin crack and tricky gear. Surmount that with some layback moves and a couple of stem rests. Above that climb the low angle slab via flakes that lead either left towards Grand Illusion or right towards the gully, depending on your anticipated descent route.

Location 

On the right side of the east face below the large roof of Grand Illusion, just left of a gully. Climb some blocks up and left to a left facing corner/crack system to the crux dihedral. There is a nice looking crack left of this that also leads to the crux dihedral.

We descended from two beefy bolts up and left from the top of the climb and down and right from Grand Illusion. You can reach the ground with two ropes or you can get down with one rope via a sling transfer at the Telesis anchors. There are also anchors up and right from Dominion that, according the the guide, you can rap from with a 60m rope.

Protection 

All trad except for the anchors. 1 set nuts from brass to 1". At least one set cams from micro to blue Camalot. You can use a bigger cam in the wide crack, but it's easy there.


Photos of Dominion Slideshow Add Photo
The route, partially obscured by the trees. The cr...
The route, partially obscured by the trees. The cr...
Mike Arechiga on, The Dominion. 5.10a.
Mike Arechiga on, The Dominion. 5.10a.
At the big rest in the middle of the crux section.
At the big rest in the middle of the crux section.
Looking past the wide section towards the crux. Th...
Looking past the wide section towards the crux. Th...
Entering the crux on Dominion. The Grand Illusion ...
Entering the crux on Dominion. The Grand Illusion ...
Having fun on Dominion
Having fun on Dominion

Comments on Dominion Add Comment
Show which comments
By W. Spaller
From: Boulder
Nov 17, 2007

Very reasonable for the grade and includes some awesome hand jams and lie back moves. Fun route and worth doing.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Feb 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is a less-traveled left variation that follows an right arching crack before joining the crux. It starts a bit rotten, but then there's quality climbing in the 8-9 range with some great wide hands jamming. I'm told it's more sustained than the usual path, but I haven't yet done both to compare. It probably adds 15' or more to the climb too. Should get done more, imo.

I found the crux on this climb to be quality.

edit: I climbed the usual path of this route and it was pretty good. Also, probably as sustained as the left variation. I would recommend either approach. In fact, you must do both!
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Apr 19, 2011

Great climb. Although I agree with the 10a rating, there are great rests to place gear throughout the climb so it feels less committing.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Aug 29, 2011

I also found the same thing. Easy to start, then a few 5.8/5.9 moves to get into the steeper corner with the thin crack, which increases in difficulty the higher you climb. An acrobatic type of lieback gets you out of the corner when the crack peters out and onto the right. There's a knob for your right foot which helps tremendously. For me, 10a is a very fair rating for the crack in the corner.
By Phil Esra
Apr 15, 2012

A little soft for the grade, I thought; definitely a great line. From the rap anchor to the right, a 60m gets you to an easy scramble in the gully on the right.
By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 29, 2012

Beware! A 70m does not exactly get you to the ground from the anchors to the left. You can rap to a ledge 20' off the deck and down climb 5.6 to get to the ground.
By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Sep 17, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Gear: Single set of cams from .5" to 3" and medium stoppers will sew the crack up.

Rap: One rap with a single 60m rope from the chains (3 of them) to the right of the route, or two raps from the anchors to the left of the route.

This felt like benchmark Yosemite 5.9, but YMMV.