|717 page views|
A girdle traverse begins on the furthest route on one side of the crag, traverses the formation neither touching the ground nor the summit, and ultimately tops out on the furthest route on the opposite side of the crag.
The Dome Girdle is a great tour of some of the best climbing The Dome has to offer and is a fun diversion after you've climbed everything else. The crux comes early and the pitches shared with Evening Stroll make it both technically challenging and a bit spicy.
At an area like The Dome with its proximity to Boulder and 50+ years of climbing history chances are this has been done, most likely by one of those crusty old dudes we see in Eldo quietly soloing 5.9 in high tops and tube socks.
Regardless, here is the Dome Girdle as climbed by Greg Albrechtsen and myself 3-11-2008:
P1: Climb the first pitch of Evening Stroll. 5.10a S 60'
P2: Climb the crux traverse of the second pitch of Evening Stroll to the descent gully dihedral. Traverse right to a belay on the shoulder near Left Edge staying above the ledge in the descent gully. 5.10d 100'
P3: Traverse below Gorilla's Delight and the A-Frame roof of Super Squeeze and build a belay somewhere below The Umph Slot, 5.7 100'
P4: Traverse right and up to make the move on chickenheads around the arete as for The Owl and continue up to where it is possible to step right from the handcrack of The Owl to the left edge of the Cozyhang Roof. Traverse the Cozyhang Roof from left to right and belay at the base of the East Chimney. 5.7 120'
P5: Traverse up and right across the East Slab, East Slabs East, etc. and finish on the rightmost exit crack. Continue to the summit. 5.7 120'
It would certainly be possible to do this in fewer pitches. We kept the pitches short to keep the rope drag down around the many corners and to make it easier to communicate.
For partial credit, skip the first two pitches and instead begin on Left Edge to make this a moderate outing at 5.7.
For (hopefully) obvious reasons, doing a girdle traverse on a busy day would be lame.
Start on the west side of The Dome as for Evening Stroll.
Pro to 3", A hook to protect the slab portion of Evening Stroll.
|By Christopher Roberts|
Jul 25, 2013
Did a version of this today. Called it the William Shatner. Good fun on The Dome for a potential rain day. We did not do the Cozyhang part. Instead we went up The Owl and traversed right across the diagonalling ramp on the East Slab to the far side. Was some silly fun. Do it.