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Central Wall
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Amazing Spider-Man, The T 
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Head Jam T 
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Unknown (Much Too Bored) T 
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Welcome to Moore's T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dolphin Head 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,529
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Line for Dolphin's Head (see it at the top of P1?)...

Description 

This obscure route doesn't get a lot of attention but is well worth seeking out. See if you think the namesake feature really looks like a dolphin's head.

Climb the face following crack systems and easy jugs, then angle up and left to the "head." Pull this roof move and finish at a ledge.

The old Kelly guide lists this route at 5.6, a bit of a sandbag.

Location 

Starts about 100' left of Welcome to Moore's on a clearing above the cliff trail. Scramble climber's left to a rap station (webbing and rap rings slung on a big chockstone).

Protection 

Small to medium cams and passive gear; build a gear anchor at the top.


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By boo
Mar 7, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route is totally 5.6. To make it 5.7 is taking it out of context with the rest of Moore's Wall.
By Dave Wise
From: Pinehurst, NC
Jul 19, 2009

Excellent route. The start and the finish are fantastic and well worth it. The middle section is lackluster 4th class/easy 5th and covered in lichen, but the beginning and end of the climb make up for it.