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Aug 15, 2014
It looks like I may have time for a quick hit in the Dolomites after dropping off someone at Milan airport. Can anyone suggest a classic moderate (up to5.9) with relatively easy access? The more beta the better, as I don't even have a map yet. Thanks! kemple sr.
Joined Jun 8, 2011
90 points
Aug 15, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: The route in it's entirety.
mountainproject.com/v/cima-pic... Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
770 points
Aug 17, 2014
when will you be there? im looking for a partner come second week of september miraperrone
Joined Aug 17, 2014
5 points
Aug 18, 2014
How many days you have?
Do you want to start from car or night in mountain hut is an option?
Joined Feb 18, 2014
0 points
Aug 18, 2014
I have no plan, but quick is likely better, so I was thinking of car or ski lift. The one route suggested sounds great, but seems like a handful for someone just driving in for the first time..

I will be there fri/sat of this week.

thanks to all. TK
kemple sr.
Joined Jun 8, 2011
90 points
Aug 18, 2014
Anyone know anything about Cinque Torre? kemple sr.
Joined Jun 8, 2011
90 points
Aug 18, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Bear Creek Spire, Sierras, CA

There are several great routes up at Cinque Torri, and it has really easy access. From the North slope you can take a 10min lift up to the ridge to Torre Grande, or from the South drive to Rifugio Cinque Torri and walk 15min from the hut's parking area. The lift cost about 20 EUR roundtrip and we were told at the base by other climbers that parking at Rif. Cinque Torri was free.

The main route of choice in Cinque Torri is "via delle guide" or "Bergfuehrerweg" on Torre Grande West.


Another great route that sounds like what you're looking for is up the road a few more minutes from Cinque Torri, on Sass di Stria, called Hexenstein. If you continue west of SR 48 outside of Cortina d'Ampezzo, you will reach Falzarego Pass. Take a right (North) at the fork and head onto Passo Valparola. You will soon come to the parking area behind a very large boulder to approach the route. It is about a 20min approach. I can tell you to be sure to BRING your approach shoes for the descent, and don't leave anything at the base. The descent is really straightforward and shouldn't have nearly as much snow as when I was up there in June.


I am PM'ing you additional route pictures and descriptions to help you out as well...let me know if you don't receive them.

EDIT: Just realized that I can't directly send you a PM with pictures. If you would like pictures of the routes from the guidebook, just let me know!

From Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Joined Feb 5, 2010
685 points
Aug 18, 2014
Cinque Torri is good (probably the shortest routes).

As are things on the Sella Towers (<25 min approach from car). Here I'd recommend either Vinatzer on Sella Three (~5.9, 13 pitches, scramble & some raps descent). There's also Kasnakoff on Sella Two (5.9ish? have not done) & 2 shorter routes (5.6 & 5.9 very polished) on Sella One.

Vinatzer on Sella Three w. a party on it:

Another short day option with what is probably the easiest descent (cable car directly back to your car) is the stuff on Sass Pordoi. Probably 30 min approach from car. Even w/o beta just follow the crowds...think there's at least 2 lines in the 5.7-5.8 range & 10ish pitches. Starts from Pordoi Pass - really can't miss it & don't really need more beta than to follow the herd (bring your wallet). Here's the pic from just out of the parking lot (you're aiming for sun-shade prow on the very left):

Joined Dec 5, 2005
701 points
Aug 18, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Another day at Red Rocks.  Photo by Joanne Urioste
Kemple sr. You lucky guy. There is no better place in the world for climbing than the Dolomites and no better time of the year.

All the routes mentioned above are great ones. Cima Piccolo Yellow Edge is a handful and - scary. Kasnakoff is a great one with short approach and only one pitch of 5.8/9.

Here's two more for short, easier days, easier climbing and unbelievable exposure.

The Thumb: mountainproject.com/v/the-thum...

Comici: mountainproject.com/v/torre-pi...
From Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Joined Mar 22, 2007
1,366 points
Aug 18, 2014
You guys are great! I should have plenty to work with. Hope we get a good day.
We have been climbing in the Aosta valley, and the scenery and climbing have been fantastic.
kemple sr.
Joined Jun 8, 2011
90 points
Aug 19, 2014
It's septemeber so saturday will be very crowded.

Cinque Torri is more a crag than mountain climbing but a lot of routes there so you should find something without queues. "Classics" are very, very polished.

Sella towers are very popular, plenty of routes with quick access. Parking may be full early.

I would avoid Hexenstein's south rib on any weekend unless you like queues.
The same apply for Comici on Torre Piccola + it's very popular among guides. The top is small, with people doing routes on both faces waiting to downclimb/lower to small ledge and rappel station.

I would suggest checking Trapezio part of Lagazuoi Piccolo, between 27 and 'd' on the picture:
Not old "Classics" but you see entire wall from the parking on Valparola Pass and can pick your route based on number of people you see. It's also easy to pass or just pick your own variant. There's one more route between 24 and 25 not described there.

All routes end on a big ledge (it's possible to climb higher but you should get topo for that as descent is less obvious). From the ledge you walk right to rappel station. The better one is not shiny new ring but the one with slings couple meters further, less chance for stuck rope. Continue in the same direction following cairns (or other parties) all the way to big scree slope (path is mostly level, do not enter gullies). You'll see your car all the time so no map required.
quartogrado.com/gruppi/falzare... has some information and pictures for all routes (Piccolo Lagazuoi -
Trapezio). I believe nr 27 quartogrado.com/volume2_2/rela... is least popular.
You can end your day on Hexenstein sport crag on the other side of the road.
Joined Feb 18, 2014
0 points
Aug 21, 2014

Hello, if you hesitate whether summer is a good season to see Dolomites, please watch the clip we made after visiting Val Gardena, Pordoi,Sella,Giau, Val Parola,Fedaia and a little village Sottoguda with the great gorge. Hope you'll like it :-) It was the second time we were there in the summer and it was great - not so many people as in other mountains,fine weather and spectacular views.
Joined Aug 21, 2014
0 points

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