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Averae and Nuvolau 
Catinaccio / Rosengarten Group 
Cinque Torri 
Civetta Group 
Fanis Group 
First Sella Tower 
Geisler Group (Gruppe Odle) 
Lagazuoi and Fanis Group 
Landro 
Monte Averau 
Pala Group 
Piz Ciavazes 
Piz Pordoi 
Pomagagnon Group 
Punta Delle Cinque Dita 
Sass Da Ciampac 
Sassolungo (Langkolfel) Group 
Second Sella Tower 
Sella Group 
Third Sella Tower 
Tofana 
Tofana di Rozes 
Tre Cime di Lavaredo 
Vajolet Towers 
Val Rienza 

Dolomites 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2007

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Tre Cime de Lavaredo after a storm.

It started ra...


Description 

The Dolomites have to be one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world. There are countless long routes at all levels of difficulty. The rock is limestone, the quality of which can vary dramatically! Many of the climbs have short approaches, and the longer ones can often be accessed via lifts. Definitely a classic and historical climbing destination. Most of the routes are "old school", so feel out the ratings.


Getting There 

The Dolomites are located in Northern Italy. Fly into one of the larger cities in the area, or, drive from one of the more major cities to the south.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dolomites:
Via delle Guide   5.5     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   Cinque Torri : Torre Grande West Summit
Northwest Corner   5.6     Trad, 300 feet   Cinque Torri : Torre Barancio
Fedele   5.7     Trad, 26 pitches, 2625 feet   Piz Pordoi
Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi   5.7+     Trad, 12 pitches, 1000 feet   Fanis Group : Cima Bois
South Face Buttress 1, a.k.a. “South Arete”   5.7+ PG13     Trad, 14 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade III   Tofana di Rozes
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante”   5.7+ PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 820 feet   Piz Pordoi
Old South Face   5.8     Trad, 11 pitches, 1640 feet   Sass Da Ciampac
Kasnakoff   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 820 feet   Second Sella Tower
South Face (Via Miriam)   5.8     Trad, 5 pitches, 530 feet   Cinque Torri : Torre Grand South Summit
Vinatzer   5.8+     Trad, 13 pitches, 985 feet   Third Sella Tower
South Face, Buttress 2, Pillar Rib (Constantini/Ghedina)   5.9     Trad, 18 pitches, 1400 feet, Grade IV   Tofana di Rozes
Cima Piccola – South Arete Yellow edge   5.9+     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade IV   Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Tissi Route   5.10a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 590 feet   First Sella Tower
Big Micheluzzi   5.10a     Trad, 12 pitches, 820 feet   Piz Ciavazes
Schubert   5.10a     Trad, 7 pitches, 820 feet   Piz Ciavazes
Messner   5.10a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 820 feet   Second Sella Tower
Fata Morgana   5.10     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II   Second Sella Tower
Comici   5.10+     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1475 feet, Grade IV   Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin   5.11 PG13     Trad, Alpine, 1500 feet, Grade IV   Tre Cime di Lavaredo
South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro Route (Constantini/Apollonio)   5.11     Trad, 19 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade V   Tofana di Rozes
Browse More Classics in Dolomites

Featured Route For Dolomites
Route Topo.

Kasnakoff 5.8  International : Dolomites : Second Sella Tower
Good, fun route on steep face and corner climbing.Pitch 1 - Climb up and to the right to reach a small niche above a crack. (40m)Pitch 2 - Start up face and continue up through a corner/chimney. Then move to the right to gain a small ledge. (50m)Pitch 3 - Climb up the loose-looking, black chimney to gain a ramp. Follow the slightly chossy ramp up and slightly left. (45m)Pitch 4 - Follow the chimney up to below some yellow overhangs. Move right under the overhangs to just left of the arete. (3...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Dolomites Slideshow Add Photo
Near Sella Pass

Near Sella Pass



Vajolet Towers and the Gartl Hut.  <br /> <br />From left to right: The Delago Tower, the Stabeler Tower, and the Winkler Tower. <br /> <br />The 5.8 Delago route ascends the left skyline arete of the Delago Tower.  This is one of the classic routes in the Dolomites.

Vajolet Towers and the Gartl Hut.

From left to r...


Cinque Torri (Five Towers).  <br /> <br />This is the primary cragging area near Cortina.  Easy access with many one-to-four-pitch moderate climbs.

Cinque Torri (Five Towers).

This is the primary ...


Tofana di Rozes.  <br /> <br />One of the largest peaks near Cortina.  We didn't climb it, but there are 15-to-30-pitch routes for the adventurous.

Tofana di Rozes.

One of the largest peaks near C...


Sass Pordoi.  <br /> <br />A great 12-pitch 5.8 route, the Mariakante, starts on the sunlit face on the left of the photo.  The last pitch takes you to the summit, where a tram station, restaurant, hotel, and gift shop await.  A three-euro tram ride gets you back down in 5 minutes!

Sass Pordoi.

A great 12-pitch 5.8 route, the Mar...


Torre Wundt and the Fonda Savio Hut.  <br /> <br />The Mazzorana Route, a 6-pitch 5.7, climbs the highest peak behind the hut.

Torre Wundt and the Fonda Savio Hut.

The Mazzora...


Sass de Stria.  <br /> <br />The Hexenstein Route (6 pitches, 5.7) climbs the highest peak in the left-center of the photo.  You can barely see the large metal cross that's on the summit. <br /> <br />On the descent, you can see old bunkers, caves, and lookouts from World War I.

Sass de Stria.

The Hexenstein Route (6 pitches, ...


View of the Sass Pordoi tram near the top of the Mariakante rock climb.

View of the Sass Pordoi tram near the top of the M...

Farmhouse and cows below the Tre Cime. <br /> <br />We were in a surreal world after completing a 12-pitch climb: a cow pasture with imposing views of the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, with swirling clouds in the aftermath of a late-afternoon thunderstorm.

Farmhouse and cows below the Tre Cime.

We were in...


Tre Cime de Lavaredo from the south.  <br /> <br />Photo taken from the summit of Torre Wundt.  The Aronzo Hut can be seen in the lower-center of the photo.

Tre Cime de Lavaredo from the south.

Photo taken...


In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, after climbing Spitagoras, a 12-pitch 10a route. <br /> <br />Photo by <a href='/u/bruce-hildenbrand//11057'>Bruce Hildenbrand</a>

In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo,...

Descending from a Dolomite summit via Via Ferrata.

Descending from a Dolomite summit via Via Ferrata.

This Via Ferrata had a new bridge as well.

This Via Ferrata had a new bridge as well.

 Dolomites near Cortina D'ampezzo

Dolomites near Cortina D'ampezzo

Sassolungo

Sassolungo

Sassolungo II

Sassolungo II

Cima della Madonna in the Pala Group, with swirling clouds characteristic of that area.

Cima della Madonna in the Pala Group, with swirlin...

Making our way into Cortina d'Ampezzo

Making our way into Cortina d'Ampezzo

Corvara, Italy

Corvara, Italy

San Martino di Castrozza in the early morning (1963).

San Martino di Castrozza in the early morning (196...

Punta Fiames, just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo. The well-known "Spigolo Fiames," or "Spigolo Jori" is the knife edge near the summit of the peak.

Punta Fiames, just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo. T...

Tre Sorelle (Three Sisters)Sub-Group in the Sorapiss Group near Misurina.

Tre Sorelle (Three Sisters)Sub-Group in the Sorapi...

Cinque Torri from the East.

Cinque Torri from the East.

Dito di Dio (Finger of God) in Sorapiss Group.

Dito di Dio (Finger of God) in Sorapiss Group.

The Geislerspitzen from the South; the Kleine and Grosse Fermeda are the 2 prominent summits near center.

The Geislerspitzen from the South; the K...

Pomagagnon Group just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo.

Pomagagnon Group just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo...

Swirling clouds in the Pala Group, with Pala di San Martino as the prominent summit (center).

Swirling clouds in the Pala Group, with Pala di Sa...


Comments on Dolomites Add Comment
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By Bill Flaherty
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 29, 2008

The Dolomites are a stunningly beautiful range. I'm not aware of another destination that offers so many long routes for rock climbers, without the complications of glacier travel. If you like long, free routes at grades that mortals can climb, this is the place for you. It's also worth noting that the local food is fantastic.

There are two drawbacks to consider. First, the rock can be tricky to protect, especially if you're an American climber raised on clean granite or sandstone cracks. There are crack systems here, but you'll also encounter face climbing with funky pods and holes... consider bringing some old Lowe tricams (the passive kind) to place in the pockets. Locals also master the art of threading holes with slings, though my granite-trained eyes rarely spot these placements. Bottom line: Don't launch off on routes near your max until you have a feel for protecting the rock.

Second, there is a bit of loose rock around. Ask locals about the rock quality on your intended routes. When it's really hot, rockfall increases significantly. Note also that the worst rock quality rating given by many Italian guidebooks is "buon", or good. The 4th Sella Tower, for example, is rated buon, but the top is total kitty litter. Wear a helmet unless you're suicidal.

All that said, you can have an absolute blast cruising these beautiful long routes over postcard landscapes. Choose your routes wisely and enjoy!

By Rodger Raubach
Jan 13, 2012

Trying to categorize the Dolomites as "a Mountain Range" isn't really accurate, as there is a wide variety of rock type and quality from Group to Group. The one very uniform characteristic...steep climbing! Many of the routes condsidered "just average" by the locals would warrant four stars elsewhere. It's one of my all time favorite places to climb...or simply visit.