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Dolomites

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Dolomites 


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Location: 46.6174, 11.8515 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 160,738
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2007
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Tre Cime de Lavaredo after a storm.

It started ra...

Description 

The Dolomites have to be one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world. There are countless long routes at all levels of difficulty. The rock is limestone, the quality of which can vary dramatically! Many of the climbs have short approaches, and the longer ones can often be accessed via lifts. Definitely a classic and historical climbing destination. Most of the routes are "old school", so feel out the ratings.


Getting There 

The Dolomites are located in Northern Italy. Fly into one of the larger cities in the area, or, drive from one of the more major cities to the south.


97 Total Routes


['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',46],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',28],['5.7',16],['5.8',9],['5.9',10],['5.10',25],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dolomites:
Via delle Guide   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Cinque Torri : Torre Grande West Summit
North Face   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Cinque Torri : Torre Barancio
Northwest Corner   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 300'   Cinque Torri : Torre Barancio
Fedele   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 26 pitches, 2625'   Piz Pordoi
"Spigolo Fiames," SE Arete   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 15 pitches, 1350'   Pomagagnon Group : Punta Fiames
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 820'   Piz Pordoi
South Face Buttress 1, a.k.a. “South Arete”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 14 pitches, 1100'   Tofana di Rozes
Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1000'   Fanis Group : Cima Bois
Kasnakoff   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 820'   Second Sella Tower
South Face (Via Miriam)   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 530'   Cinque Torri : Torre Grand South Summit
Vinatzer   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 13 pitches, 985'   Third Sella Tower
South Face, Buttress 2, Pillar Rib (Constantini/Ghedina)   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 18 pitches, 1400'   Tofana di Rozes
Cima Piccola – South Arete Yellow edge   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1100'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Messner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 820'   Second Sella Tower
Big Micheluzzi   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 12 pitches, 820'   Piz Ciavazes
Schubert   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 820'   Piz Ciavazes
Abram Arete   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1000'   Piz Ciavazes
Comici   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1475'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo
South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro Route (Constantini/Apollonio)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 19 pitches, 1500'   Tofana di Rozes
Browse More Classics in Dolomites

Featured Route For Dolomites
The approach to the Abram Arete and lower half of the ridge. <br /> <br />Typical Sella Pass traffic - 20 or so Lamborghini's in a row.

Abram Arete 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  Europe : Italy : ... : Piz Ciavazes
I think the biggest and best of the south facing Ciavazes routes is the Abram Aręte. It certainly follows the most prominent feature on the wall. Short approach, moderately good rock and quick descent. In the sun!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Dolomites Slideshow Add Photo
Farmhouse and cows below the Tre Cime. <br /> <br />We were in a surreal world after completing a 12-pitch climb: a cow pasture with imposing views of the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, with swirling clouds in the aftermath of a late-afternoon thunderstorm.
Farmhouse and cows below the Tre Cime.

We were in...
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, after climbing Spitagoras, a 12-pitch 10a route. <br /> <br />Photo by <a href='/u/bruce-hildenbrand//11057'>Bruce Hildenbrand</a>
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo,...
Cima della Madonna in the Pala Group, with swirling clouds characteristic of that area.
Cima della Madonna in the Pala Group, with swirlin...
Vajolet Towers and the Gartl Hut.  <br /> <br />From left to right: The Delago Tower, the Stabeler Tower, and the Winkler Tower. <br /> <br />The 5.8 Delago route ascends the left skyline arete of the Delago Tower.  This is one of the classic routes in the Dolomites.
Vajolet Towers and the Gartl Hut.

From left to r...
Sass Pordoi.  <br /> <br />A great 12-pitch 5.8 route, the Mariakante, starts on the sunlit face on the left of the photo.  The last pitch takes you to the summit, where a tram station, restaurant, hotel, and gift shop await.  A three-euro tram ride gets you back down in 5 minutes!
Sass Pordoi.

A great 12-pitch 5.8 route, the Mar...
 Dolomites near Cortina D'ampezzo
Dolomites near Cortina D'ampezzo
Cinque Torri (Five Towers).  <br /> <br />This is the primary cragging area near Cortina.  Easy access with many one-to-four-pitch moderate climbs.
Cinque Torri (Five Towers).

This is the primary ...
View of the Sass Pordoi tram near the top of the Mariakante rock climb.
View of the Sass Pordoi tram near the top of the M...
San Martino di Castrozza in the early morning (1963).
San Martino di Castrozza in the early morning (196...
Pomagagnon Group just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo.
Pomagagnon Group just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo...
Swirling clouds in the Pala Group, with Pala di San Martino as the prominent summit (center).
Swirling clouds in the Pala Group, with Pala di Sa...
Descending from a Dolomite summit via Via Ferrata.
Descending from a Dolomite summit via Via Ferrata.
A scenic "Wanderweg" through Wolkenstein (Selva) in the Groednertal.
A scenic "Wanderweg" through Wolkenstein (Selva) i...
This Via Ferrata had a new bridge as well.
This Via Ferrata had a new bridge as well.
Piz Pordoi, near the Sella Pass.
Piz Pordoi, near the Sella Pass.
Cimone della Pala from San Martino di Castrozza.
Cimone della Pala from San Martino di Castrozza.
Geisler peaks under new September snow.
Geisler peaks under new September snow.
Torre Wundt and the Fonda Savio Hut.  <br /> <br />The Mazzorana Route, a 6-pitch 5.7, climbs the highest peak behind the hut.
Torre Wundt and the Fonda Savio Hut.

The Mazzora...
Sassolungo
Sassolungo
Many magnificent old castles dot the landscape; this is Schloss Fischburg in St. Cristina, Groednertal.
Many magnificent old castles dot the landscape@SEM...
Sassolungo II
Sassolungo II
Langkofel Group, with Fuenffingerspitze in center.
Langkofel Group, with Fuenffingerspitze in center.
Tofana di Rozes.  <br /> <br />One of the largest peaks near Cortina.  We didn't climb it, but there are 15-to-30-pitch routes for the adventurous.
Tofana di Rozes.

One of the largest peaks near C...
Falzarego Towers.
Falzarego Towers.
Making our way into Cortina d'Ampezzo
Making our way into Cortina d'Ampezzo
Sass de Stria.  <br /> <br />The Hexenstein Route (6 pitches, 5.7) climbs the highest peak in the left-center of the photo.  You can barely see the large metal cross that's on the summit. <br /> <br />On the descent, you can see old bunkers, caves, and lookouts from World War I.
Sass de Stria.

The Hexenstein Route (6 pitches, ...
Corvara, Italy
Corvara, Italy
San Martino di Castrozza from Cima della Madonna summit.
San Martino di Castrozza from Cima della Madonna s...
Near Sella Pass
Near Sella Pass
Cimone della Pala from Passo Rolle, the gateway to the Pala group.
Cimone della Pala from Passo Rolle, the gateway to...
Punta Fiames, just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo. The well-known "Spigolo Fiames," or "Spigolo Jori" is the knife edge near the summit of the peak.
Punta Fiames, just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo. T...
Schloss Trostburg makes a wonderful "rest day" activity; the castle is a museum worth visiting. It's a short uphill hike to visit.
Schloss Trostburg makes a wonderful "rest day" act...
Tre Sorelle (Three Sisters)Sub-Group in the Sorapiss Group near Misurina.
Tre Sorelle (Three Sisters)Sub-Group in the Sorapi...
The Geisler Group; L->R: Kleine Fermeda, Grosse Fermeda, and Odla de Cisles.
The Geisler Group; L->R: Kl...
Cinque Torri from the East.
Cinque Torri from the East.
Monte Civetta.
Monte Civetta.
Dito di Dio (Finger of God) in Sorapiss Group.
Dito di Dio (Finger of God) in Sorapiss Group.
The iconic Sella Towers.
The iconic Sella Towers.
The Geislerspitzen from the South; the Kleine and Grosse Fermeda are the 2 prominent summits near center.
The Geislerspitzen from the South; the K...
Marmaolada, the Queen Peak of the Dolomites!
Marmaolada, the Queen Peak of the Dolomites!
Tre Cime de Lavaredo from the south.  <br /> <br />Photo taken from the summit of Torre Wundt.  The Aronzo Hut can be seen in the lower-center of the photo.
Tre Cime de Lavaredo from the south.

Photo taken...
Sass Pordoi on the way down from Sellapass.
Sass Pordoi on the way down from Sellapass.
Comments on Dolomites Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Flaherty
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 29, 2008

The Dolomites are a stunningly beautiful range. I'm not aware of another destination that offers so many long routes for rock climbers, without the complications of glacier travel. If you like long, free routes at grades that mortals can climb, this is the place for you. It's also worth noting that the local food is fantastic.

There are two drawbacks to consider. First, the rock can be tricky to protect, especially if you're an American climber raised on clean granite or sandstone cracks. There are crack systems here, but you'll also encounter face climbing with funky pods and holes... consider bringing some old Lowe tricams (the passive kind) to place in the pockets. Locals also master the art of threading holes with slings, though my granite-trained eyes rarely spot these placements. Bottom line: Don't launch off on routes near your max until you have a feel for protecting the rock.

Second, there is a bit of loose rock around. Ask locals about the rock quality on your intended routes. When it's really hot, rockfall increases significantly. Note also that the worst rock quality rating given by many Italian guidebooks is "buon", or good. The 4th Sella Tower, for example, is rated buon, but the top is total kitty litter. Wear a helmet unless you're suicidal.

All that said, you can have an absolute blast cruising these beautiful long routes over postcard landscapes. Choose your routes wisely and enjoy!

By Rodger Raubach
Jan 13, 2012

Trying to categorize the Dolomites as "a Mountain Range" isn't really accurate, as there is a wide variety of rock type and quality from Group to Group. The one very uniform characteristic...steep climbing! Many of the routes condsidered "just average" by the locals would warrant four stars elsewhere. It's one of my all time favorite places to climb...or simply visit.

By Rodger Raubach
Sep 10, 2013

I'm currently sending this from Wolkenstein during a rain delay in my climbing.
A few additional notes should be entered here; although bus transportation is excellent, a rental car is advised. BUT be very careful, as there are lots of huge busses on the mountain roads in addition to maniacal-suicidal motorcyclists, as well as only suicidal bicyclists! That said, accomodations are generally reasonable in the many Pensions and Hotels-Garni.

By Rodger Raubach
Oct 28, 2013

Natural protection is plentiful, and threads are called "Sanduhrs," (German for "hourglass.")

Typical tied off Sanduhr.
Typical tied off Sanduhr.