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Tre Cime de Lavaredo after a storm.
It started ra...
The Dolomites have to be one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world. There are countless long routes at all levels of difficulty. The rock is limestone, the quality of which can vary dramatically! Many of the climbs have short approaches, and the longer ones can often be accessed via lifts. Definitely a classic and historical climbing destination. Most of the routes are "old school", so feel out the ratings.
The Dolomites are located in Northern Italy. Fly into one of the larger cities in the area, or, drive from one of the more major cities to the south.
96 Total Routes
['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',46],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Dolomites
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dolomites:
Featured Route For Dolomites
Carlesso-Menti Route 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c International
: ... : Torre di Valgrande
Seen from the NW, the eye is immediately drawn to a striking near vertical crack system piercing the upper half of the face. Lower 5th class climbing at the UIAA Gr. III level (5.4/5.5)reaches an overhang/cave at the base of the fantastic dihedral and crack system. Climbing out from the cave and reaching the dihedral proper constitutes the crux at UIAA Gr. VIII- (5.11a/b), but aid may be used to overcome this obstacle to progress (A0,A1). The remaining climbing is still quite stout at UIAA Gr. V...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Near Sella Pass
Vajolet Towers and the Gartl Hut.
From left to r...
Cinque Torri (Five Towers).
This is the primary ...
Tofana di Rozes.
One of the largest peaks near C...
A great 12-pitch 5.8 route, the Mar...
Torre Wundt and the Fonda Savio Hut.
Sass de Stria.
The Hexenstein Route (6 pitches, ...
View of the Sass Pordoi tram near the top of the M...
Farmhouse and cows below the Tre Cime.
We were in...
Tre Cime de Lavaredo from the south.
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo,...
Descending from a Dolomite summit via Via Ferrata.
This Via Ferrata had a new bridge as well.
Dolomites near Cortina D'ampezzo
Cima della Madonna in the Pala Group, with swirlin...
Making our way into Cortina d'Ampezzo
San Martino di Castrozza in the early morning (196...
Punta Fiames, just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo. T...
Tre Sorelle (Three Sisters)Sub-Group in the Sorapi...
Cinque Torri from the East.
Dito di Dio (Finger of God) in Sorapiss Group.
The Geislerspitzen from the South; the K...
Pomagagnon Group just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo...
Swirling clouds in the Pala Group, with Pala di Sa...
San Martino di Castrozza from Cima della Madonna s...
Cimone della Pala from San Martino di Castrozza.
Cimone della Pala from Passo Rolle, the gateway to...
Many magnificent old castles dot the landscape@SEM...
Schloss Trostburg makes a wonderful "rest day" act...
Piz Pordoi, near the Sella Pass.
The Geisler Group; L->R: Kl...
Langkofel Group, with Fuenffingerspitze in center.
A scenic "Wanderweg" through Wolkenstein (Selva) i...
The iconic Sella Towers.
Marmaolada, the Queen Peak of the Dolomites!
Geisler peaks under new September snow.
Sass Pordoi on the way down from Sellapass.
|By Bill Flaherty|
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 29, 2008
The Dolomites are a stunningly beautiful range. I'm not aware of another destination that offers so many long routes for rock climbers, without the complications of glacier travel. If you like long, free routes at grades that mortals can climb, this is the place for you. It's also worth noting that the local food is fantastic.
There are two drawbacks to consider. First, the rock can be tricky to protect, especially if you're an American climber raised on clean granite or sandstone cracks. There are crack systems here, but you'll also encounter face climbing with funky pods and holes... consider bringing some old Lowe tricams (the passive kind) to place in the pockets. Locals also master the art of threading holes with slings, though my granite-trained eyes rarely spot these placements. Bottom line: Don't launch off on routes near your max until you have a feel for protecting the rock.
Second, there is a bit of loose rock around. Ask locals about the rock quality on your intended routes. When it's really hot, rockfall increases significantly. Note also that the worst rock quality rating given by many Italian guidebooks is "buon", or good. The 4th Sella Tower, for example, is rated buon, but the top is total kitty litter. Wear a helmet unless you're suicidal.
All that said, you can have an absolute blast cruising these beautiful long routes over postcard landscapes. Choose your routes wisely and enjoy!
|By Rodger Raubach|
Jan 13, 2012
Trying to categorize the Dolomites as "a Mountain Range" isn't really accurate, as there is a wide variety of rock type and quality from Group to Group. The one very uniform characteristic...steep climbing! Many of the routes condsidered "just average" by the locals would warrant four stars elsewhere. It's one of my all time favorite places to climb...or simply visit.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Sep 10, 2013
I'm currently sending this from Wolkenstein during a rain delay in my climbing.
A few additional notes should be entered here; although bus transportation is excellent, a rental car is advised. BUT be very careful, as there are lots of huge busses on the mountain roads in addition to maniacal-suicidal motorcyclists, as well as only suicidal bicyclists! That said, accomodations are generally reasonable in the many Pensions and Hotels-Garni.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Oct 28, 2013
Natural protection is plentiful, and threads are called "Sanduhrs," (German for "hourglass.")