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Dolomites

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Dolomites  


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Location: 46.6174, 11.8515 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2007
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Tre Cime de Lavaredo after a storm.

It started ra...

Description 

The Dolomites have to be one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world. There are countless long routes at all levels of difficulty. The rock is limestone, the quality of which can vary dramatically! Many of the climbs have short approaches, and the longer ones can often be accessed via lifts. Definitely a classic and historical climbing destination. Most of the routes are "old school", so feel out the ratings.

Getting There 

The Dolomites are located in Northern Italy. Fly into one of the larger cities in the area, or, drive from one of the more major cities to the south.

Climbing Season



Weather station 22.4 miles from here

103 Total Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',49],['2 Stars',34],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',30],['5.7',17],['5.8',10],['5.9',9],['5.10',28],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dolomites:
Via delle Guide   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Cinque Torri : Torre Grande West Summit
Northwest Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 300'   Torre Seconda (Second Tower... : Torre Barancio
North Face   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Torre Seconda (Second Tower... : Torre Barancio
Fedele   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 26 pitches, 2625'   Piz Pordoi
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 820'   Piz Pordoi
Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1000'   Fanis Group : Cima Bois
South Face Buttress 1, a.k.a. “South Arete”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 14 pitches, 1100'   Tofana di Rozes
"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 15 pitches, 1350'   Pomagagnon Group : Punta Fiames
South Face (Via Miriam)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 530'   Cinque Torri : Torre Grand South Summit
Kasnakoff   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 820'   Second Sella Tower
Vinatzer   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 13 pitches, 985'   Third Sella Tower
South Face, Buttress 2, Pillar Rib (Constantini/Ghedina)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 18 pitches, 1400'   Tofana di Rozes
Cima Piccola – South Arete Yellow edge   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1100'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Messner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 820'   Second Sella Tower
Big Micheluzzi   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 12 pitches, 820'   Piz Ciavazes
Schubert   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 820'   Piz Ciavazes
Abram Arete   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1000'   Piz Ciavazes
Comici   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1475'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo
South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro Route (Constantini/Apollonio)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 19 pitches, 1500'   Tofana di Rozes
Browse More Classics in Dolomites

Featured Route For Dolomites
View from low on the route, looking towards summit.

"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Europe : Italy : ... : Punta Fiames
The route follows several easy pitches of the Via Commune , until the ledge system for a rising traverse across the face to the base of the Arete becomes obvious. The angle steepens and climbing becomes somewhat more challenging, but never extreme. The "crux" involves a series of moves around a corner onto the East face where a wide crack is surmounted back onto the arete proper. This is a leaning offwidth that is liberally supplied with pitons, and may approach 5.8 in difficulty. The options be...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Dolomites Slideshow Add Photo
Farmhouse and cows below the Tre Cime. <br /> <br />We were in a surreal world after completing a 12-pitch climb: a cow pasture with imposing views of the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, with swirling clouds in the aftermath of a late-afternoon thunderstorm.
Farmhouse and cows below the Tre Cime.

We were in...
Cima della Madonna in the Pala Group, with swirling clouds characteristic of that area.
Cima della Madonna in the Pala Group, with swirlin...
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, after climbing Spitagoras, a 12-pitch 10a route. <br /> <br />Photo by <a href='/u/bruce-hildenbrand//11057'>Bruce Hildenbrand</a>
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo,...
Vajolet Towers and the Gartl Hut.  <br /> <br />From left to right: The Delago Tower, the Stabeler Tower, and the Winkler Tower. <br /> <br />The 5.8 Delago route ascends the left skyline arete of the Delago Tower.  This is one of the classic routes in the Dolomites.
Vajolet Towers and the Gartl Hut.

From left to r...
 Dolomites near Cortina D'ampezzo
Dolomites near Cortina D'ampezzo
Sass Pordoi.  <br /> <br />A great 12-pitch 5.8 route, the Mariakante, starts on the sunlit face on the left of the photo.  The last pitch takes you to the summit, where a tram station, restaurant, hotel, and gift shop await.  A three-euro tram ride gets you back down in 5 minutes!
Sass Pordoi.

A great 12-pitch 5.8 route, the Mar...
Cinque Torri (Five Towers).  <br /> <br />This is the primary cragging area near Cortina.  Easy access with many one-to-four-pitch moderate climbs.
Cinque Torri (Five Towers).

This is the primary ...
View of the Sass Pordoi tram near the top of the Mariakante rock climb.
View of the Sass Pordoi tram near the top of the M...
San Martino di Castrozza in the early morning (1963).
San Martino di Castrozza in the early morning (196...
Pomagagnon Group just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo.
Pomagagnon Group just North from Cortina d'Ampezzo...
Swirling clouds in the Pala Group, with Pala di San Martino as the prominent summit (center).
Swirling clouds in the Pala Group, with Pala di Sa...
Spring flowers on Pordoi Pass
Spring flowers on Pordoi Pass
Descending from a Dolomite summit via Via Ferrata.
Descending from a Dolomite summit via Via Ferrata.
A scenic "Wanderweg" through Wolkenstein (Selva) in the Groednertal.
A scenic "Wanderweg" through Wolkenstein (Selva) i...
Torre Wundt and the Fonda Savio Hut.  <br /> <br />The Mazzorana Route, a 6-pitch 5.7, climbs the highest peak behind the hut.
Torre Wundt and the Fonda Savio Hut.

The Mazzora...
This Via Ferrata had a new bridge as well.
This Via Ferrata had a new bridge as well.
Sassolungo
Sassolungo
Geisler peaks under new September snow.
Geisler peaks under new September snow.
Sassolungo II
Sassolungo II
Cimone della Pala from San Martino di Castrozza.
Cimone della Pala from San Martino di Castrozza.
Tofana di Rozes.  <br /> <br />One of the largest peaks near Cortina.  We didn't climb it, but there are 15-to-30-pitch routes for the adventurous.
Tofana di Rozes.

One of the largest peaks near C...
Langkofel Group, with Fuenffingerspitze in center.
Langkofel Group, with Fuenffingerspitze in center.
Making our way into Cortina d'Ampezzo
Making our way into Cortina d'Ampezzo

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Comments on Dolomites Add Comment
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By Bill Flaherty
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 29, 2008
The Dolomites are a stunningly beautiful range. I'm not aware of another destination that offers so many long routes for rock climbers, without the complications of glacier travel. If you like long, free routes at grades that mortals can climb, this is the place for you. It's also worth noting that the local food is fantastic.

There are two drawbacks to consider. First, the rock can be tricky to protect, especially if you're an American climber raised on clean granite or sandstone cracks. There are crack systems here, but you'll also encounter face climbing with funky pods and holes... consider bringing some old Lowe tricams (the passive kind) to place in the pockets. Locals also master the art of threading holes with slings, though my granite-trained eyes rarely spot these placements. Bottom line: Don't launch off on routes near your max until you have a feel for protecting the rock.

Second, there is a bit of loose rock around. Ask locals about the rock quality on your intended routes. When it's really hot, rockfall increases significantly. Note also that the worst rock quality rating given by many Italian guidebooks is "buon", or good. The 4th Sella Tower, for example, is rated buon, but the top is total kitty litter. Wear a helmet unless you're suicidal.

All that said, you can have an absolute blast cruising these beautiful long routes over postcard landscapes. Choose your routes wisely and enjoy!
By Rodger Raubach
Jan 13, 2012
Trying to categorize the Dolomites as "a Mountain Range" isn't really accurate, as there is a wide variety of rock type and quality from Group to Group. The one very uniform characteristic...steep climbing! Many of the routes condsidered "just average" by the locals would warrant four stars elsewhere. It's one of my all time favorite places to climb...or simply visit.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 10, 2013
I'm currently sending this from Wolkenstein during a rain delay in my climbing.
A few additional notes should be entered here; although bus transportation is excellent, a rental car is advised. BUT be very careful, as there are lots of huge busses on the mountain roads in addition to maniacal-suicidal motorcyclists, as well as only suicidal bicyclists! That said, accomodations are generally reasonable in the many Pensions and Hotels-Garni.
By Rodger Raubach
Oct 28, 2013
Natural protection is plentiful, and threads are called "Sanduhrs," (German for "hourglass.")
Typical tied off Sanduhr.
Typical tied off Sanduhr.