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Dolomite Spire

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Campground Route T 
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Dolomite Spire Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 19, 2003

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Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower as seen from t...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Dolomite Spire is the finger-like spire between the Lighthouse and the Big Bend Butte, directly across from the Big Bend Recreation Area. It's about 300' tall looking at it from the river side, but only 225' from the other side. There are only two routes (that I know of) on the tower - the Kor Route (5.8 C2) and Dolofright (5.11d R).

Getting There 

Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Do a short pitch to the notch on the right side of the Lighthouse (one or two 5.7 moves), then walk behind the Lighthouse to Dolomite Spire. Ascend one of two or three easy (5.8 or so) crack systems (choose whichever looks best) to the higher notch between Lighthouse and Dolomite. Begin the routes from a nice little ledge here.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.2 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dolomite Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dolomite Spire:
Kor Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'   
Dolofright   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dolomite Spire

Featured Route For Dolomite Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian McAlexander beginning the last pitch and tryin...

Kor Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2  UT : Moab Area : ... : Dolomite Spire
This is a good 4-pitch route which offers a typical desert clean aid climbing experience. Be prepared to be out of your aiders. Pitch 1) Climb 20 feet to a chimney with a floor and walk/scramble over to a belay on the ridge between Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower. (5.8)Pitch 2) Climb a thin crack angling up and right past a couple fixed pins. (At this point, Dolofright follows newer bolts up and left) Move right and up via pin scars and small nuts to the obvious horizontal band. Traverse rig...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Dolomite Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lighthouse, Dolomite, and Big Bend Butte from the ...
Lighthouse, Dolomite, and Big Bend Butte from the ...

Comments on Dolomite Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 23, 2004
Kor route good.
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Mar 1, 2006
This route was really pretty impressive. Tri-cams were useful on the traverse pitch, pitch 4 if I remember correctly.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Dec 15, 2012
You can rap off the summit to the ground with two 70m ropes, the pull wasn't bad as you can doctor the knot a bit up top and walk downhill to pull.
By gregsmiller
From: Louisville
Apr 3, 2013
whats the easiest way to access the kor route? Is it possible to hike in from behind?
By Matt Pickren
Apr 4, 2013
Yes, it is possible to hike in from around the back. To do so, park at the group camping and follow the main wash until even with the Lighthouse/ main butte notch and then go up to Dolomite. This is a dog friendly approach, but the easiest is definitely from the front and climbing the 5.7 approach pitch.

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