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 ADVANCED
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Beautiful Life S 
Addiction S 
Black Hole S 
Corner Drug S 
DeWalt's Challenge S 
Dogs of War S 
Drug Enemy S 
Gathering, The S 
Go West, Young Man S 
I Want a New Drug S 
Mezmeree (sp?) S 
Pretty Hate Machine S 
Public Enemy S 
Soul Finger S 
Soup Sandwich S 
Surplus Fusion Reaction S 
White Dwarf S 

Dogs of War 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Frank Dusl
Page Views: 947
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 26, 2006

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Description 

Dogs of War has scads of 5.12 climbing with a very bouldery crux on crimps buried in the mid-height on the climb. A jug allows a shake before the crux. Two variations on travel exist after the crux 1) either directly right into Pretty Hate Machine (13b/c), or 2) up before more slowly merging w/ PHM. The 2nd version involves a few more stout pocket cranks than the 1st. The final few clips of Dogs of War are shared with Pretty Hate Machine and involve more pocket climbing on the final bulge. Possible softer than 13b variation 1) and likely 13b for 2).

Location 

Located near center on the wall, just left of the big juniper at the base. Converges high on the route with Pretty Hate Machine which climbs from directly behind the juniper.

Protection 

8 bolts (1 or 2 shared with PHM) to anchors.


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By Kipp Schorr
Dec 2, 2013

Pretty enjoyable route, and a nice respite from some of the greasey difficult routes at this crag. Pretty quick crux section (involving a small very chipped crimp), but the top makes up for it with really fun moves on incut pockets. Reasonable for the grade.