Dog's Head Cutoff
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Warren Teissier starting the E. Face traverse towa...
This short but exposed route enables you to reach the top of the Dog's Head from the bottom of the Slip Slide ledge (top of the Southwest Chimney
This is a really cool route but is unprotected and traverses a portion of rotten rock. Due to the traversing nature of the route and the fact that you traverse to the right (above the bottom of slip slide ledge), a fall could have serious consequences, even if the one piece holds....
Begin some 40 feet up the Slip Slide ledge under a fierce overhang.
Scramble to the lip on the South side of the Slip Slide ledge and bridge the overhang by reaching up to a one foot solution hole above the overhang. The hold is great and will enable you to climb up the overhang and onto the shallow ramp that runs above the overhang.
Traverse right (down) the rotten ramp for some 10 feet find a cam placement at your feet, take a deep breath and traverse onto the steep East face for 30 feet and onto a huge chockstone near the top of the Dog's Head.
From here, you can continue to the top....
An Orange Allien (or similar cam) is the only placement for the whole route
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 3, 2006
You can also do this route by climbing a nasty looking slot right of this description. It's only about a foot wide, and maybe easy, but looks unpleasant. I think there is some description in one of the old guides about someone getting stuck in it!