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This short OW is mostly moderate, punctuated with a short difficult crux coming out of the pod.
The route is located 10' left of the first pitch squeeze chimney of Doggie Diversions just left of where the streambed first meets the wall. Walk off climbers left.
Big cams, #3 camalot to #4.5 camalot, optional hand sized piece.
Steve Moyles in the crux.
Me on Doggie Do. This is right about the time I wa...
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Oct 19, 2008
I agree that the crux is exiting the pod. I wore my approach shoe on my right foot which made the lower part really easy. But try as I might, I really struggled on the upper part. I ended up using several versions of hand stacks and was able to crank though.
My Buddy Tristan tried to lead this before I got on it. He simply slid the green C4 ahead of him for the whole lower part. and a purple for the upper. He had been feeling a bit sick all week and the fight with the crux made him "want to throw up!" Several times he looked down with a pretty nasty look and I thought, here it comes.
From: San Jose
Feb 18, 2010
this route is felt way harder than 10a - calf locks with hand stacks is the ticket on crux section
|By Bryan G|
Feb 1, 2011
It's harder than it looks from the ground. Can't quite get my knee jam to stick in the OW while exiting the pod. There's many Valley OW's of the grade (Secret Storm, Sacherer Cracker, Chingando, Reed's Left) that feel substantially easier.
|By Phil Esra|
May 2, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
felt harder than Generator Crack to me.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Dec 19, 2011
What's with the hand stacks? The flare felt too tight and deep for me to get any stacks. I just couldn't get both hands deep enough into the crack. Better to side pull crimp on the inside crack and other features until you can sidepull on a jam in the inside crack. Careful foot stacking on the flare brings you out OK. Once your feet are past the blocks in the pod, it seemed to climb well as a squeeze chimney.
A #6 BD C4 is all you need for the bottom half, then a #4 BD C4 can be left as a backup just below the crux, and a #5 BD C4 can be pushed through the crux. Another #4 BD (or a #3?) can be placed to protect the final twist & exit as you've left the #5 behind by then.
Jan 21, 2012
FA: Chris Fredericks, by 1970
|By Rodger Raubach|
Mar 13, 2012
The FA was indeed by Chris Fredericks, but it was Summer, 1965.
|By Weston L|
From: Summerlin, NV
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
wiggle wiggle wiggle!
Bring gear to 5" and you will be fine. No need for double of anything.