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Chuck leading the flake variation 5 feet right of ...
A good pitch which is in your face right off the ground. Fingers, tight hands, hands, liebacks, body language all required at some point. Crux is low, but the entire first half of the route is sustained at the grade. A proud send, put up by two collosal figures in Yosemite's golden age, when 5.9 was a whole different concept.
A variation, also 5.9, takes the thin flake right of the crack. Not sure about quality of pro in this flake.
From the boulder field, keep your eyes open for the two obvious, short widecracks, Doggie Do and Doggie Diversions. Doggie Deviations, your climb, is just uphill from these. Fingers to tight-hands off the deck, can't miss it.
We were able to rap with one 60, but it was close.
Pulling the crux early on, merely 10 feet off the ...
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 13, 2012
My GF and I made an attempt on this back in 1982. She led the thin flake portion nicely, and the pro was reasonable using some small wired stoppers and quick-draws. I continued on up a slick lieback above and took a short whipper. She insisted that we go down at that point, since she got jarred catching me. But to answer the implied question, re: protection of the thin flake, it was adequate--probably as good as the flake itself.
From: East Bay, CA
Sep 21, 2013
Such a cool route. Lots of mosquitos in spring and early summer due to huge tree coverage and nearby drainage - make sure your belayer is watching you and not slapping mosquitos.
You will be challenged on this stout climb with a huge variety of techniques: jams, fists, first twenty ft of sustained fingers, lieback, some offwidth, and even some careful stemming towards the end. Bring nuts for a few parts toward the top that will take nothing else. Also a #4 would help at the top of the overhanging wide part about 2/3 of the way up.