|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Kim Schmitz & Jim Bridwell, 1968|
|Submitted By:||Sirius on Apr 22, 2007|
|Comments on Doggie Deviations||Add Comment|
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By Rodger Raubach
Mar 13, 2012
|My GF and I made an attempt on this back in 1982. She led the thin flake portion nicely, and the pro was reasonable using some small wired stoppers and quick-draws. I continued on up a slick lieback above and took a short whipper. She insisted that we go down at that point, since she got jarred catching me. But to answer the implied question, re: protection of the thin flake, it was adequate--probably as good as the flake itself.|
From: East Bay, CA
Sep 21, 2013
Such a cool route. Lots of mosquitos in spring and early summer due to huge tree coverage and nearby drainage - make sure your belayer is watching you and not slapping mosquitos.
You will be challenged on this stout climb with a huge variety of techniques: jams, fists, first twenty ft of sustained fingers, lieback, some offwidth, and even some careful stemming towards the end. Bring nuts for a few parts toward the top that will take nothing else. Also a #4 would help at the top of the overhanging wide part about 2/3 of the way up.