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Dog Wall
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Dog Logic (aka Here Kitty, Kitty) 
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Unknown Dihedral 
Wok the Dog 

Dog Logic (aka Here Kitty, Kitty) 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: (TR) Rick Shull, Chris Miller & Tim Fearn, February 1988, FL: Geoff Weigand, February 1988
Page Views: 1,071
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 30, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Pulling into the crux, two micro crimps to a good ...

Description 

Located in the center of the wall, this is the third bolted line from the left.

Climbs a vertical to gently overhanging wall on good edges to anchors at the lip of the wall. This was the second bolted line on the wall; it was orinally a toprope problem but soon after bolted.

Listed in current guidebooks as Here Kitty, Kitty and rated 5.11c.


Protection 

4 bolts ,anchors



Photos of Dog Logic (aka Here Kitty, Kitty) Slideshow Add Photo
Mase and Paul sizing up the crux...that small crimp right below draw.
BETA PHOTO: Mase and Paul sizing up the crux...that small crim...
The FA of Dog Logic (5.11b), Red Rocks. Photo by Tim Fearn (February 1988).
The FA of Dog Logic (5.11b), Red Rocks. Photo by T...
Comments on Dog Logic (aka Here Kitty, Kitty) Add Comment
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By Gary Savage
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 5, 2007

The crux was not bolted well on this climb. If you come off on the delicate crux your belayer had better be paying attention to keep you off the ground. Of course one can always stick clip the second bolt and avoid a sprained ankle altogether. BTW if your over 6' the crux is probably 10d, 11c for us short people.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 27, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a PG13

Another tip if you dont have a stick clip is to use just a carabiner (no draw) on the first bolt- this works well and takes 6" off the fall, which definitely could matter.

That said, this route could definitely have used a different bolt setup- the second bolt should be lower, and an extra bolt should have been put in a little above the crux- this would take the edge off the route and make it an enjoyable climb for anyone projecting .11s.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a PG13

On 2/2/11, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the 2nd bolt and the anchors on this route with 1/2 x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts. The anchors are equipped with mussy hooks.

Note: Upon consideration, we chose to leave the start bolted as it is, as the initial difficult move could result in a major injury if we moved the first bolt up high enough to protect the crux well (and make it a stick clip mandatory climb)- we felt that a tight belay is adequate.

Note 2: The second bolt was moved up both to facilitate the rope being out of the way for the crux if you stick clip it (as you should), and to lessen the fall if you fall going for the third bolt.

Note 3: The LVCLC and ASCA cannot add bolts to established climb, despite what we consider a very strong argument for a new second bolt on this route.

By Dan Lautzenheiser
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 15, 2011

Fun pulls on solid edges.

Safety: short draw or carabiner on 1st bolt and a good belay.
2nd bolt is fine, you clip off an incut jug.

Hard to grade this route...it felt to me like a V3 boulder problem with 5.10 climbing above.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Dec 19, 2011

What John is saying above is that because there is a hard starting move, the *crux above* was left unprotected. Now, he didn't bolt the thing, and isn't responsible for what the bolter did. That said, this route was bolted stupidly, and I'd much rather have a spot for the first two moves, then a protected crux with a safe fall, than a bolt-protected AND spotted starting move to an unprotected decking crux.

For what it's worth, I onsighted this climb ground-up my first year in Vegas. It's good climbing, just not safely bolted. Even with a single locker on that first bolt there's no way ankles aren't getting broken on this one, the pucker factor feels more Fixx Cliff than Dog Wall to me the way it is.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 20, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a PG13

fwiw- i've seen several people take the fall off the crux on this thing with a regular draw on the first bolt and no one has tapped the deck. Everyone has ended up 2 feet or more above that starting shelf.

thats part of the reason we didnt mess with the bolt configuration. but i do agree- this, along with some other routes at this cliff were not bolted with any sort of thought whatsoever...

By Ben May
From: Escondido, CA
Oct 30, 2012

  • **It's not all that bad. Reach for a critical left hand crimp and move to a higher right hand then you're at the jug. It's a little scary but not bad. It's a short and fun climb.