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Dog Leg Crack T 

Dog Leg Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ted Doughty & James Barnett
Season: Winter. Spring, Fall
Page Views: 510
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Feb 27, 2012

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Me climbing Dog Leg Crack, view looking roughly no...

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Description 

This climb heads up a hand crack to a left to right diagonaling crack, which leads to a wide crack to the top. The crux is passing the bush growing in the middle of the traversing crack. Look hard for decent feet! A little gritty but a good climb nonetheless.

Location 

The start of this route is on the left side of the formation. Start up the hand crack then traverse out to the right. Reach a wide vertical crack on the right side and head to the top. Use open shuts, directly left of the finish (the open shuts are part of 5 bolt .10c route).

Protection 

Pro 3/8" to #6 Camelot. #1 Camelot on the initial vertical crack. Small cams on the traversing crack (yellow and green alien, also a #2 Camelot helpful). The upper vertical crack takes a #5 and #6 Camelot (be sure to use slings to minimize rope drag). There are open shuts at the top, which are part of a bolted route next to the upper crack.


Photos of Dog Leg Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Tombstone, with the 'Dog Leg Crack' signaturin...
BETA PHOTO: The Tombstone, with the 'Dog Leg Crack' signaturin...

Comments on Dog Leg Crack Add Comment
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By jeffblankman
From: San Diego, Ca
Dec 11, 2014

Is there anyone out there with ANY beta on this climb at all?

I've wanted to try it for a while, but a vague description of an extended off-with at the top is disconcerting.
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Apr 15, 2016

Jeff -

I'm a little confused by your comment. The information listed above is pretty much straight forward. I'm not quite sure what you're looking for exactly. If you're worried about the off-width near the finish, its not that hard....I'd say 5.7/5.8 with a few face holds on the outside to make progress easier. I did use a #5 and #6 Camelot. Be sure to use longer slings once you get into the initial start to the off-width so you're not dealing with rope drag from the change in direction. The crux is during the traverse (.10a), fair to poor feet and the crack is part of a sloping narrow ledge that makes it awkward for being confident with hand position since it slopes to down and left while you are moving up and right. Comprende? The crack took a #1, .75 and a green and yellow Alien (best to my memory). I could make you a ham sandwich if you ask nicely. :)

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