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Dog Leg Crack 

Dog Leg Crack 

5.10a

   
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Type: Trad, 55 feet
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
FA: Ted Doughty & James Barnett
Season: Winter. Spring, Fall
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Feb 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The Tombstone, with the 'Dog Leg Crack' signaturin...

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Description 

This climb heads up a hand crack to a left to right diagonaling crack, which leads to a wide crack to the top. The crux is passing the bush growing in the middle of the traversing crack. Look hard for decent feet! A little gritty but a good climb nonetheless.


Location 

The start of this route is on the left side of the formation. Start up the hand crack then traverse out to the right. Reach a wide vertical crack on the right side and head to the top. Use open shuts, directly left of the finish (the open shuts are part of 5 bolt .10c route).


Protection 

Pro 3/8" to #6 Camelot. #1 Camelot on the initial vertical crack. Small cams on the traversing crack (yellow and green alien, also a #2 Camelot helpful). The upper vertical crack takes a #5 and #6 Camelot (be sure to use slings to minimize rope drag). There are open shuts at the top, which are part of a bolted route next to the upper crack.