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|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 560 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.10b/c [details]|
|FA: ||B. Collett & J. Thompson, Aug., 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||J. Thompson on Aug 15, 2010|
Pitch 1: Start up discontinous crack systems. These lead basically straight up for 20 feet or so until it is possible to traverse right over a roof/overlap. Once the roof has been surmounted, follow the diagonaling finger crack/flake back left and under the next and bigger roof. Climb out this roof on its left side. Continue up the easier cracks above to a ledge system. Instead of belaying here, climb the short chimney behind the huge pillar. Belay at the top of the Pillar. Save a couple of medium-sized cams for the belay. A nice belay spot! 5.10, 130 feet.
Pitch 2: Locate the bolt on the steep rock above and to the right of the belay. Climb past the bolt on steep rock using cool face holds. Trend left into the obvious crack system. Follow this to a very nice ledge. 5.10, 140 feet.
Pitch 3: Continue up the obvious line above the belay. End at another very nice ledge, below a left-trending corner with a nice crack. 5.8, 60 feet.
Pitch 4: Climb the aforementioned corner above the belay. When the crack pinchs to nothing do some corner switching face climbing to the left. Follow the next crack system up. It is steep and starts out flared. Do not traverse into the huge chimney out left. Follow this crack system up through some interesting stemming. End at another very nice ledge, with a left curving (and dead end) crack directly above. You'll need at least 1 #3 Camalot for the belay, maybe save a #2 as well. 5.10, 130 feet.
Pitch 5: Step right off the ledge on a foot rail and gain the corner/crack system. Layback or jam up the corner to a ledge system. Head right following the path of least resistance towards the ridge line. 5.9, 100 feet.
Walk past the first 4 routes on the Tan Buttresses.
You'll come across a slab of polished rock in between the first and second Buttresses. Dog Fight starts on the right side of the slab.
Nuts: 1.5 sets.
Cams: 1 Black Alien (or TCU).
1 Blue Alien.
2 each: Green Alien thru #3 Camalot.
1 #4 Camalot.
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Aug 15, 2010
The Name "Dog Fight" comes from a 3 minute outburst by what must have been Coyotes?
Sure seemed like they opened a can!
This is a super fun route. We certainly had fun up there and hope other will as well!
|By Ben Collett|
Aug 17, 2010
The start of the first pitch is about 20 feet left of the start of Goat Food. The top of the first pitch can also be reached very easily from Goat Food. At the top of the route, just cruise along the ridge until you can scramble to the top of the plateau.
|By Gregger Man|
Sep 12, 2011
Nice route. My first climb on the Tan Buttresses, and I was surprised at how warm it got as soon as the sun hit. Sheltered from the wind until the last pitch.
Almost linked pitch 2 and 3 with a 60m rope. Would link easily with a 70.
Belay at the top of P4: Built it with a #3 and a #2, but Stu needed the #3 at the start of P5. He was within reach, so he gave me a #1 in exchange for the #3 and the anchor was still bomber (one #3 in the rack).
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Sep 13, 2011
Glad you had fun.
Pretty sure you guys did the second ascent.
Good info on linking 2 & 3. When we climbed the route, we belayed at places other than in this description. When Ben and I talked about it later, we figured it would have been better to stop at the places described here, thus wrote the route up that way. Hard to tell what's coming on an FA!
I agree about the warmth of the wall and the wind. Several times I've been cold on the approach, then dropped down and been very warm on the route. The Tan Butt's are very shielded from the wind as well.
Super stoked you guys had fun!