Dog Down Arete
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The obvious blunt arete left of the Left Branch.
By Colonel Mustard
May 16, 2011
Cool, thanks for posting up the route so quickly! I'm glad to know it was somewhere in the tough range. I'm wondering on beta, do you pull the roof more or less over the bolt, or do you trend left or right? It seems there may be a way to go right and ease up the rating, but I was far too pumped from gripping the blunt arete to do so.
I'm giving it 3 stars for the section I completed - well bolted with cool features. The rest of the climb looked good, probably more moderate.
By Ryan Curry
May 17, 2011
At the roof you move slightly left, around the arete, and make powerful moves to a decent clipping stance. The top is no gimme and involves 5.11 climbing that moves from right to left across the arete and up. I haven't tried escaping right to avoid the crux moves but if my (fading) memory is correct it looked improbable to do so. Besides, on the lead you wouldn't be able to protect any moves out that direction, so you're forced on to the arete anyway.