Dog Day Afternoon 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 360 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Jesse B and Jesse Z |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Zacher on Jun 13, 2007 |
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Shows the first two pitches
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Description Pitch One: (100ft) Make some easy moves off the ground then grapple with entry moves in the hard offwidth that becomes a chimney. Scoot back in the chimney, place, then go back out and wiggle up, belay at ledge. Pitch Two: (100ft) Ascend the corner via ledges and seams and exit right out of the roof then jam and chimney your way until you have a short #3 cam crack on your right that leads you to a very roomy ledge. Pitch 3: (50ft) From the belay ledge go up the good arching hands crack, and gain a ledge. Then head back and look for a corner with a roof, belay below the roof: Pitch 4: (100ft) Pull through the roof on jams and edges until it seams out and make a cool traverse left and then up into some steep jamming to the top. A fun route that has a bit of everything and gets you up there.
Location Go right of Big Mo and pass a long, right-facing dihedral then pass an even larger, right-facing dihedral. Go around the large prow and the route starts on a bench beneath a large looking crack. Descent: Walk down to where the wall starts to get shorter (about 200 yards) go down a slab dotted with trees and find the lowest and biggest juniper close to the edge. There are blue webbing and rap rings. One single rope rap.
Protection Doubles up to a #4 and one #5. Nuts.
Jesse B about enter the depths on the first pitch
| High up on the 2nd Pitch before the Luxury ledge.
| The dreamy exposed, but short, crack of pitch 3
| Beginning of the last pitch, kinda tricky.
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