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Dog Day Afternoon 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Houser and Charles Cole, February 1979
Page Views: 2,021
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Stepping up to the good stuff!

Description 

Start in the rocky notch between the two towers and climb solid edges on nice brown rock past four bolts to a ledge (3" piece here). One more bolt and some stemming lead to the top and a bolted anchor/rap.

A standout climb of the area that should not be missed. Three stars out of five.


Location 

This route climbs to the top of the leftmost tower visible from the road. Directly across from this route is the obvious roof crack of Grit Roof which climbs to the top of the right-hand tower.


Protection 

5 bolts to anchor/rap (all 3/8"). Take a 3" piece for the horizontal before the last bolt.



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DDA
BETA PHOTO: DDA
Steve Strong on a beautiful desert afternoon.
Steve Strong on a beautiful desert afternoon.
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 19, 2012
By Sascha von Meier
Feb 5, 2004

Really fun route; bolts are where you want them. Be sure to belay from the ground, not the starting boulder. Cold rock in the winter (no direct sun) but sheltered from the wind.

By Bo Johnston
Mar 18, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I was really glad a brought a #3 Camalot for the upper horizontal with a double length sling. The move off the horizonal is nothing to take lightly and the run after the last bolt made me smear carefully and dive for the top!

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 28, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I had nothing for the aforementioned horizontal when I did this route, and had to placate my mind a bit before committing. Fortunately there is nice ledge one can start and restart from before making the mantelish move to the next bolt. Very fun route, and well recommended.

By JJ Armstrong
Apr 21, 2009

The best climb on the formation. I recommend that you should be solid on 5.10b and bring a # 3.

By Shipp
From: laguna beach, ca
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Great route. Bring a #3 camalot for the 10b (IMO) mantle move or you're risking a 30' grounder.

By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Mar 17, 2010

Failing to bring a #3, I found a nice constriction in the horizontal to slot a carabiner behind.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 2, 2011

Haha, nice Bryan! I didn't bring the #3, but carried a rack of the anodized tri-cams. Doubled them up and extended it. No gear here turns the climb into X rated. Hopefully the guidebook will be updated to include that beta.

By nealg
Mar 28, 2011

Definitely have a fist-size piece or (even a very large nut) to be used at the horizontal b/w bolt 4 and 5. Even without it, you would not deck even if you biffed before getting the 5th bolt clipped.

Great face route and relatively well protected.

By darryl banks
Mar 16, 2012

i too left behind the cams. waz not happy for a couple moments b4 commiting

By Mark J Gain
Oct 27, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I have led this route a few times, never bringing pro "because" it is a "sport climb" from what I read in my guides from the '86 guide that told me "Five bolts protect good, steep face climbing" to my most recent '92 guide, and my buddies in that were all just "bring some draws", "no worries"..., all stating well protected face climb with bolts, but on my excursion today, in very cold finger weather for me and sans lead head, I brought some pro for the horizontal because having led it several times and not having my head in JT sorts... So, I would suggest taking some pro as well if desired (#2 Camalot worked well for me a 3 would be fine too i'm sure) if you do not want to make it into what was for me at a time "no worries" to well I would rather not fail on the transition into the dihedral, it turned out to be much more fun and not an issue, I really like this climb and would suggest it to anyone, but would mention a little gear (2 pieces or so and a longish sling...) might make for a more secure outing, especially when it's COOOOOOLD... JT to do! It is said to bring some "Med Nuts as well in the '97 book of "Classics"

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I agree Mark. I took numbers 2-3 camalot with me the second time I led this back in the day. I'm glad I did, because the transition to the upper part must be made before the clip.

By Richard Shore
Nov 19, 2012

A 4' sling is needed for the 3" piece to reduce rope drag on the final slabby section. Only bringing one standard shoulder-length sling for that piece, I had to fight my way to the top. Even with the 3" piece, you don't want to blow the move onto the headwall, lest you enjoy somersaulting backwards down low-angle slab.