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 ADVANCED
Shady Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cotton Mouth S,TR 
Dog Breath T,S,TR 
Herpes Simplex S,TR 
Slot Nose S,TR 
Special Effects S,TR 
Tall Man Simplex S,TR 

Dog Breath 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Morgan Brown on Sep 1, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: West Face of Shady Rock, CRSP. Photos by Morgan B...

Description 

This route is next to "Special Effects" on Shady Rock's west face. Enjoy 20 feet of 5.6 hand work in trademark Castle Rock caves and flakes. The first bolt is quite high. The second is just below a cave which is under the prominent bulge which crosses the entire rock. There are numerous opportunities to place medium cams or slot medium-to-large nuts on the way up. The crux is just below the anchor. Try to lieback a right-facing corner, and have faith as you reach up for high hands. They're not quite "thank god" pockets, but they're a helluva lot better than nothing. This route would definitely be rated 5.9 at many other areas.

Protection 

Two bolts on route, two bolt anchor. First bolt is about 15' up; you can tie off a runner to buckethandles down low.


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By RichieRich
Jul 14, 2014

A #3 BD C4 (#2 may have been slightly better) fits in a hueco/pocket nicely near where the first bolt USED to be (as illustrated in Thornburg's guide)