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BETA PHOTO: West Face of Shady Rock, CRSP. Photos by Morgan B...
This route is next to "Special Effects" on Shady Rock's west face. Enjoy 20 feet of 5.6 hand work in trademark Castle Rock caves and flakes. The first bolt is quite high. The second is just below a cave which is under the prominent bulge which crosses the entire rock. There are numerous opportunities to place medium cams or slot medium-to-large nuts on the way up. The crux is just below the anchor. Try to lieback a right-facing corner, and have faith as you reach up for high hands. They're not quite "thank god" pockets, but they're a helluva lot better than nothing. This route would definitely be rated 5.9 at many other areas.
Two bolts on route, two bolt anchor. First bolt is about 15' up; you can tie off a runner to buckethandles down low.
Jul 14, 2014
A #3 BD C4 (#2 may have been slightly better) fits in a hueco/pocket nicely near where the first bolt USED to be (as illustrated in Thornburg's guide)
By Lukas Wiborg
From: Mountain View, CA
Jul 7, 2016
Luckily the climbing to the first bolt is fairly easy but it is still a good idea at least to have a spotter.