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Does anyone use <9.5 mm rope for cragging?



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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Dec 28, 2009
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

I just found a couple of good deals on a 9.4 and a 9.6. I tend to push the numbers, so I definitely whip a lot. These cords are smaller than I've used for that sort of thing. But what's the real issue with using a smaller diameter single for dogging around? Someone enlighten me!


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Dec 28, 2009
Bocan

craggin, but not whippen. But I'm no 13d redpointer....

More on ice than rock though....


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Dec 28, 2009
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

So what exactly is the issue with whipping on a smaller diameter single rope?


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By KG Lee
From Princeton, NJ
Dec 28, 2009

They're rated for fewer falls.


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By timt
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Dec 28, 2009
on lead, Mean Green Cody,WY

I haven't climbed on anything fatter than 9.5 in years and wouldn't for anything other than big walls. they are rated for fewer falls, but unless you plan on taking a lot of factor 2's i wouldn't let that worry you. if you ARE planning on taking a lot of factor 2's, the rope is the least of your worries!
if you are whipping on gear it can be significantly safer, since they stretch more and have lower impact forces = less likely to blow gear. get one and climb on it and i doubt you will ever go back to a fattie.


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By Allen Hill
From FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Dec 28, 2009
Slick Rock put in

I climb on a Mammut Serenity. It's 8.9 mm. Several friends who have climbed with me were so impressed by the rope they've bought one. I know for a fact that one has seen several serious Black Canyon routes.


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By Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Dec 28, 2009
Overlooking Independence Monument in Colorado National Monument

I use a 9.4 petzl fuse quite frequently, but if I'm gonna be setting up TR's for others I'll bring a 9.8 or higher. It's pretty much a trade-off between ease and durability. A skinnier rope generally provides more elongation (a softer fall), but will take far fewer falls before it needs to be retired versus a thicker rope. That's why a 9.8 will have a higher fall rating (# of falls) compared to a 9.4. My opinion: if you have the money to replace your ropes more frequently and pay careful attention to their condition, it's very nice climbing on skinny ropes.


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By boydpainting
From Estes Park CO
Dec 29, 2009

I climbed three times a week for a year on a Maxim 9.6, only one good whip, lots of rappin' and after 13 months my 9.6 60m is now a 72m 9.4ish. Good= handle well(most of the time), soft catch, lighter, and smoother. Bad= wear faster/fewer falls, the old guys you climb with will whine about "using this same style cord to sling my hexes".

+1 if you can afford to buy rope more often.


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By Aaron Martinuzzi
Dec 29, 2009
end of the day in the black canyon.

i climb regularly on a 9.2 mm rope - cragging, alpine, whatever. i've taken a few falls, actually 4, on it, this season, and don't think twice about it. it's a rope, isn't that it's job? that said, if i was projecting a sport route i would definitely use something heftier, but for less than one-fall-a-month trad cragging it suits me.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 29, 2009
Darren in the crux of Twist of Fate <br />Photo: Blake McCord

edelweiss 9.2 performance. has outlasted ropes i have owned that were fatter. get a long one (at least 70m), so you can periodically nip a few meters off each ends; if youre sport craggin and fallin a lot, these are the sections that get worked the most..


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By Dan Dalton
From Boulder, CO
Dec 29, 2009
Working the sick hand-jams on Stemwide aka Big Dihedral (5.8) at North Table. Photo courtesy of Scott Borger.

I frequently go craggin with my Fuse (9.4), made by Petzl. Although some people claim that skinnier ropes have 'less falls' rated, this is irrelivant. A single rope has to pass a minimum of 5 factor two falls (a.k.a only possible in a multipitch situation.)

Since you asked about 'cragging', I assume you are talking mostly of single pitch sport or trad. If this is the case, even taking relatively large falls, (such as a fall of 20ft when 80ft of rope is paid out) will generate a fall factor of .25, of which your rope can do hundreds of times.

If you like something that is a little thinner, there is nothing wrong with using it cragging. Just be aware the skinnier ropes DO wear out quicker. While they might be just as strong as many thicker ropes, their sheaths are usually thinner and will wear through quicker. That's just the ways it is, you cannot have it all!

Thicker= less expensive + longer lasting + bulky
Thinner= more expensive + shorter life + light and sexy


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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Dec 29, 2009
How I Send

Dan Dalton wrote:
I assume you are talking mostly of single pitch sport or trad. If this is the case, even taking relatively large falls, (such as a fall of 20ft when 80ft of rope is paid out) will generate a fall factor of .25, of which your rope can do hundreds of times.


Danno you are so smart - I figure if it's not core shot it will hold, right?

Beal 9.4 whatever it's called - Supple Soft Catches better than Petzl Piano Wire.


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By Rich Farnham
Dec 29, 2009

One thing to keep in mind is whether you intend to top-rope with it. As someone pointed out above, the skinny ropes stretch a lot giving the leader a nice soft catch. If you intend to lead a pitch, lower, and then have someone TR it, this can lead to some big TR falls because of all the rope out. Not really a big deal, just something to be aware of and factor in as part of the trade-off with thicker ropes.


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By BJ Sbarra
From Carbondale, CO
Mar 13, 2010
el guapo

I'll add to the recommendations for the Petzl Fuse. It's the first 9.4mm rope I've used for cragging, and I'm hooked on skinny cords now. I've got a more in depth review here:

www.splitterchoss.com/2009/06/24/petzl-fuse-94mm-rope-review>>>

One thing to keep in mind is that Gri Gri's aren't really supposed to be used on ropes skinnier than 9.8, so we often use a Trango Cinch with our 9.4. Your mileage may vary.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Mar 15, 2010

Skinnies are great, they do the job, they're nice to hike and belay with, and they pay off on longer pitches.

They do wear out faster. Both on the sheath and at the spot 15 feet from the end where you're getting caught on short sport type falls. You know, the spot that gets flat and noodley first.

As has been stated, top rope and top rope dogging will beat up a skinny much faster.

That said, skinnies are great. They are light and they will catch you, many times. If you're doing super sport dogging/working/whipping, I'd get a bigger rope, but if you're just taking falls here and there, and not doing a ton of toproping, the skinny is the way to go. It's nice to have both.

If you have the funding and the willingness to do it, it's nice to just use skinnies and replace them more frequently.


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By Phill T
Mar 15, 2010

I use my 70m 9.4 bluewater for everything. just over a year old and going fine.


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By Pat C
From Honolulu
Mar 15, 2010
me

I generally climb on 5 mm accessory cord. when rope's thicker than like 7 mil, it kinda gets heavy to carry around more than 50 m of it.


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By chuck claude
From Flagstaff, Az
Mar 15, 2010
Approach to the Bugaboos

I use 9.1mm all the time and whip on it frequently. The only 2 drawbacks are is they (or atleast mine does) has A LOT of stretch to them so that fall will feel a lot longer (but, oh so soft) and you will probably trash it out faster. I don't remember the last time I have bought a rope thicker then 9.6mm.


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By Crag Dweller
From Denver, CO
Mar 15, 2010
My navigator keeps me from getting lost

johnL wrote:
...Ropes don't break due to age, they tend to just suck more and more and when they suck enough, you buy a new rope. This doesn't mean the old rope is going to break, it just means it doesn't feed well anymore, has core shots, has sheath slippage, and is fuzzy, ie, it sucks...


i don't mean to nit pick but you didn't mean to say that core shots don't create the potential for breakage, did you?

i've always thought core shots were a reason to retire a rope or, at least, cut the affected section off. is there a differing view on this?


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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 11, 2010

core shots bad but skinny ropes good
i love my 9.8 sterling handles great works perfectly in a greig and soft falls to keep my sometimes crappy placements from ripping when i am all pumped and desperate


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Oct 11, 2010
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

We often crag with our Mammut Infinity 9.5. We love that rope and the sheath holds up like a 10mm. No major fraying seen and we even use it over slabs and other friction hot spots. I've taken several falls on it with no flat-spotting. It does twist up, but probably just because of the way we coil it and don't allow it to untwist while hanging frequently.

I would say the complete opposite about the petzl fuse. It core shot the first day out and got very stiff after just a few months. Maybe this is an older design, but I would be wary.


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Oct 11, 2010
Tony Bubb enjoying the good "clipping holds" (hardy-har-har) while climbing 'Circumcision (6b)' at Nanyang Wall, in the Batu Caves area of K.L., Malaysia. Photo by Kenny Low, December 2006

Phill T wrote:
I use my 70m 9.4 bluewater for everything. just over a year old and going fine.


Amen, a hell of a rope.
As for some others (my 9.1 beal joker) well, the problem is wear life. They get worn out. I only use the 9.1 for long approach climbing with lower odds of failure. When I replace it, it will be with another BW 9.4.


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Oct 11, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!

I've got a Sterling Nano in rotation now. It's pretty new but so far so good. I really like it other than hearing "is that a half rope?" all the time. I don't use it for top roping but for most trad and alpine and then ice this winter it's my go to rope.


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By slim
Oct 11, 2010
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

i've kind of settled in on 9.8 as being my optimal rope diameter. anything smaller than that and i worry about the belayer keeping control of it (as johnL pointed out earlier).


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By Bob Dobalina
Nov 28, 2010

I use a 9.4mm 70m for all my cragging. It's the weapon of choice for the southern Utah deserts IMHO.


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By Scott O
From NC
Nov 28, 2010
Batman Pinnacle

I use a 9.5 (Mammut Infinity), and I love it. I also don't tend to fall a lot on it, though.


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