Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Waimea
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All the Way-A S 
Aquarius S 
Barracuda S 
Big Kahuna S 
Bonzai Pipeline T 
Bottom Feeder S 
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 
Catch the Wave T,S 
Charlie Don't Surf S 
China Beach S 
Cold War S 
Concrete Jungle S 
Coral Sea S 
Cote d'Azure S 
Cyberblock S 
Dodge the Lemons S 
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 
E-Ticket S 
Fly, The S 
Flying Fish S 
Flying Hawaiian S 
Gold Coast S 
Great White S 
Groupie Fantasy S 
Hawaii 5-O T 
Jaws II S 
Livin' Astro S 
Localmotion S 
Long Board S 
Luau S 
Man Overboard S 
Mauie Wowie S 
Muscle Beach S 
Open Project S 
Original Tsunami T 
Restless Native S 
Rhythm X S 
Riviera  S 
Short Board S 
Sidewalk Surfing S 
Silver Surfer S 
Sinister 6000 S 
Spiny Dogfish TR 
Style That's Free, The S 
Suburban S 
Surf's Up T 
TABDITO S 
Technosurfing S 
That Crack T 
They Died Surfing S 
Tsunami S 
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 
Urban Surfer S 
Vantage Point TR 
Waimea S 
Waimea The Weenie Way T,S 
Whip Tide S 

Dodge the Lemons 

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 3,217
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Nick, just starting in on the roof of Dodge the Le...

Description 

Locate the very overhanging wall on the right side of Waimea. Dodge climbs the left line (the right line being Riviera, 13d), and starts right where the trail meets the cliff. Climb straight up the wall to the first bolt and then take a hard left past two more bolts until it is possible to head straight up the easier corner.

Dodge starts with difficulty. Though Graham reportedly campused the first few moves and called the route 14a, a sneaky kneebar (see picture at right) makes it slightly more doable at 13c/d. The angle here is pretty much horizontal and the holds all seem like bad pinches. The crux of the route is climbing up to the first bolt (which you should have stick clipped). A kneebar offers a good rest before you embark on the leftward traverse.

Begin climbing left on progressively worsening holds across a hanging feature. The slappy, thrutchy nature of the climbing through this section has been called "violent." A hard move brings you to the end of the traverse. From here, climb the relatively easy corner of Maui Wowie to the top. Though a line of bolts continues up the steep arete, this line is very contrived, as a high foot is all that's required to rock up into the MW corner.

Dodge is a relatively popular climb and feels a lot like an extended boulder problem. Incidentally, it climbs much, much better than it looks.

Protection 

Bolts, maybe a right knee pad


Photos of Dodge the Lemons Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick catching a rest in the eye of the storm, the ...
Nick catching a rest in the eye of the storm, the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Knower taking lessons from nature: How to hang...
Jay Knower taking lessons from nature: How to hang...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Knower making the move to the tooth.
Jay Knower making the move to the tooth.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Jays climbing away on the coldest day thus far...
The Jays climbing away on the coldest day thus far...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick crushing it...
Nick crushing it...
Rock Climbing Photo: nick at the top of the bouldering section and head...
nick at the top of the bouldering section and head...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay conway in the corner above the business
Jay conway in the corner above the business
Rock Climbing Photo: The puff brigade getting excited for another go on...
The puff brigade getting excited for another go on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick sticks the crux of Dodge the Lemons
Nick sticks the crux of Dodge the Lemons
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay conway in the corner emile on belay
Jay conway in the corner emile on belay

Comments on Dodge the Lemons Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!