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Dodge the Lemons 

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 2,819
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 29, 2006

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Nick, just starting in on the roof of Dodge the Le...

Description 

Locate the very overhanging wall on the right side of Waimea. Dodge climbs the left line (the right line being Riviera, 13d), and starts right where the trail meets the cliff. Climb straight up the wall to the first bolt and then take a hard left past two more bolts until it is possible to head straight up the easier corner.

Dodge starts with difficulty. Though Graham reportedly campused the first few moves and called the route 14a, a sneaky kneebar (see picture at right) makes it slightly more doable at 13c/d. The angle here is pretty much horizontal and the holds all seem like bad pinches. The crux of the route is climbing up to the first bolt (which you should have stick clipped). A kneebar offers a good rest before you embark on the leftward traverse.

Begin climbing left on progressively worsening holds across a hanging feature. The slappy, thrutchy nature of the climbing through this section has been called "violent." A hard move brings you to the end of the traverse. From here, climb the relatively easy corner of Maui Wowie to the top. Though a line of bolts continues up the steep arete, this line is very contrived, as a high foot is all that's required to rock up into the MW corner.

Dodge is a relatively popular climb and feels a lot like an extended boulder problem. Incidentally, it climbs much, much better than it looks.


Protection 

Bolts, maybe a right knee pad



Photos of Dodge the Lemons Slideshow Add Photo
Nick catching a rest in the eye of the storm, the kneebar rest in the middle of the boulder problems...
Nick catching a rest in the eye of the storm, the ...
Jay Knower taking lessons from nature: How to hang upside-down from a piece of cold rock.
Jay Knower taking lessons from nature: How to hang...
Jay Knower making the move to the tooth.
Jay Knower making the move to the tooth.
The Jays climbing away on the coldest day thus far Winter 07-08
The Jays climbing away on the coldest day thus far...
Nick crushing it...
Nick crushing it...
nick at the top of the bouldering section and heading in to the corner...
nick at the top of the bouldering section and head...
Jay conway in the corner above the business
Jay conway in the corner above the business
The puff brigade getting excited for another go on Dodge The Lemons.
The puff brigade getting excited for another go on...
Nick sticks the crux of Dodge the Lemons
Nick sticks the crux of Dodge the Lemons
Jay conway in the corner emile on belay
Jay conway in the corner emile on belay
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