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 ADVANCED
Second Flatiron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Compound, The 
Direct SE Arete T 
Dodge Block T 
Dodge Block Variation (Tunnel Route) T 
East Overhang T 
Free for All T 
Freeway T 
Gutter, The 
Koyannislotsqi 
North Crack T 
South East Arete/Second T 
South Sneak T 
Southeast Overhang T 
West Face [2nd Flatiron] T 
Yarbles, The 
Unsorted Routes:

Dodge Block 

YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 4,233
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Sep 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Below the Pullman Car. Time to dodge the block.

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Yet another fine easy route on the Second Flatiron...

From the lowpoint of the the Second Flatiron (where the trail touches the base) head up through the trees to the south for a couple hundred feet. If the huge roof of the South Block is above you, you've gone just a little too far. Start on a rib/slab just below and to the right of the huge roof. This rib will have a 10 foot step visible about a ropelength up.

Climb the south edge of the rib up to the step. Climb through the steep step via the easiest looking path. Soon you will be on a small summit. Step down to the west. The South Block will be looming above you to the south. Just to the north of the block is a water polished gully. Just to the right of the gully is a narrow rib. Climb the rib for a couple ropelengths until you can work over to the obvious tree below the steep east face of the Pullman Car.

Now it's time to dodge the block. From the level of the tree, head right into gully, and engage the south facing wall. It looks steep, but if the easiest way is found it isn't difficult. From the top of this wall, continue up the slab to the same walkoff for the Freeway route.

Protection 

Flatiron SR


Photos of Dodge Block Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up Dodge Block.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Dodge Block.
Looking down the Second Flatironette to the start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the Second Flatironette to the start ...
Up towards the traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Up towards the traverse.
He couldn't resist the water polished gully.  But maybe you should?  Probably harder than 5.0 but so inviting (when dry).  Probably inviting as a mixed climb in winter as well....
He couldn't resist the water polished gully. But ...

Comments on Dodge Block Add Comment
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By Warren Teissier
Jun 19, 2002

Picking the correct spot for the traverse to "dodge" the block is the crux of this climb. If you traverse at the level of the tree, as described above, the traverse will be almost trivial. If you continue up towards the block and traverse just below it, the traverse will become considerably spicier (if you are soloing that is)

There are at least two alternatives once you cross the gully. The first one is the original route, it is the easiest one too. It climbs a weakness on the wall that looks steep but quite easy, it is slightly above the tree traverse. This puts you back on the East face for an easy scramble to the top.

The second option follows a ramp to the right of the gully you just traversed. Start as if for option one but instead of climbing to the East face head West on a narrow, polished and exposed ramp that passes slightly under an overhang and afterwards jons the East face. A spicier option indeed.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004

the 5.1 occurs in the first 50 feet the rest is Class 4. Not as good as Freeway and if you drag a friend and a rope you'll have wasted a climbing day.
By RomoFo
May 22, 2010

What a blast, I followed Roach's description and it was right on.