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 ADVANCED
Monsters from the Id
Routes Sorted
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Abominable Snowman 
Boogieman , The 
Cosmic Monsters 
Doctor No 
Feeding Frenzy 
Heaven 
Heavenly Monsters 
Journey to a Mushroom Planet 
Little Demon 
Monster Crossing 
Parallel Universe 
Source of Madness 
Stone Monkey 
Triskaidekaphobia 
White Zombie 

Doctor No 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Dave Graham, equipped by Ward Smith
Page Views: 1,027
Submitted By: James Otey on May 10, 2008
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Description 

The farthest right route at Monsters, Doctor No is the hideously steep roof characterized by crimpy, powerful moves. Is a popular project for boulders due to its short length- I have heard it referred to as a 'bolter problem'. Stick clip the first bolt and crank through the super crimpy initial V6ish boulder problem right off the ground. Sneaky use of a dropknee is quite useful here. After a few bouldery moves, a 'rest jug' is encountered, though many may argue how restful it actually is due to is size. After a short rest comes the crux: a big powerful move that requires superior body tension and excellent overall upper body fitness. Not super technical- just powerful. For those fit enough to fire the crux, the topout is not to be missed.

The moves are intuitive and fun- it's not uncommon to see someone on Doctor No who is climbing way above their level just for the fun of it.

Is now generally considered soft for its original grade (5.14a/8b+) and has been downgraded to 5.13d/8b.


Location 

The farthest right route at Monsters from the Id. Look for the super steep roof just right of the corner of Triskaidekaphobia.


Protection 

4 bolts



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