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Doctor Limit 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Ian Harmon on May 22, 2006
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Darin leading

Description 

Climb to a small ledge clipping the first two bolts in route. Make pinchy delicate moves to continue upward. After clipping the third bolt, the climbing eases up a bit and cruise to the top. The crux is finding the hidden ledge (although last time I was on it, it was chalked rediculously).

  • RCM&W #110, p. 135.


Location 

Doctor Limit is immediately right of Two Tone Zephyr, and to the left of Frequent Flatulence.


Protection 

4 or 5 bolts, to a two bolt anchor. Please use your own hardware for top roping whenever possible.



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By Adam Therneau
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

This is probably the second best 11 at redwing, after chinese freedom. Good rock, technical climbing the whole way.

By Mike Frost
Jun 29, 2010

Note that there is a climb with no bolt line between Two-tone Zephyr and Doctor Limit called Eel Pocket Route. It will be listed in the guides, but if you're counting bolt lines the route description here is correct. Eel Pocket Route can be top-roped from the Doctor Limit anchors.