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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Doc's Little Brother 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Stuberg, 1981
Page Views: 514
Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Apr 28, 2004
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The hard move off the ground.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Doc's Little Brother is the crack just left of Doctor Michael Solar. Start on the left side of the Dr. Michael Solar crack and you are at the crux, move up and left into the crack, then up the crack.

On the good side:- This climb has a tricky start- Can be done in a few minutes if you are in a hurry- Doesn't require you to climb through the bush- Has good protection the whole way

On the bad side:- It has lichen- It has vegetation- It is very short


Protection 

Medium nut, small cam, medium cam. The anchor can be setup with a double sling and small cams. Walk off to the North.



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By John Peterson
Nov 26, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Not all that bad. The move off the ground is more than 5.6 but after that it's mellow. We ran the pitch up to the next ledge above the usual top - nice climbing, more 5.5 - 5.6, good rock. You can downclimb from the higher ledge. This makes the route about 100'