|Doc Holiday Wall
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||(TR) Brad Singer & Mike Rigney, 1989, FL: Rich Scholes & Mike Rigney, 1990, Direct Start: Pete Paredes, Chuck Scott, Chris Miller & Nathan Mitts, 7/01|
|Season: ||Spring - Fall|
|Page Views: ||2,487|
|Submitted By: ||C Miller on Mar 21, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Jayson Matthews blasting through Doc's Holiday, 5....
Easy moves past three bolts lead up a featured face to the base of the smooth headwall. Clip the 4th bolt and then head up the steep, smooth face using small but positive crimps that appear just as you need them. After clipping the last bolt head straight up on jugs to finish on a small ledge with anchors.
The bottom portion of this was originally climbed via a loose hand crack to the right; years later a direct start was added which boosted the popularity of this quality route.
Scramble up 20' right of Pistol Pete to reach this area classic which tackles the smooth-looking face up the middle of the formation.
8 bolts, chain anchors
Myself on Doc's Holiday
BETA PHOTO: Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pi...
Heads up....edges are running out!
mid-section of Doc's
Photo by Leslie King
Doc's Holiday (5.10d), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
|Comments on Doc's Holiday
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This too is a great route. The crimps creak a bit but held my bacon so they were solid enough. As in the description, the crimpy holds show up just as you need them and all the clipping stances are solid.
|By Alex Bury|
From: Ojai, CA
May 30, 2010
I found this to be the most attractive line in the area.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Alas the crimps didn't just show up for me - I had to search for them, and when I found them I had to resist all temptation to immediately reject them in favor of as yet undiscovered better crimps, glad I did that because despite the seemingly woefully inadequate nature of a few of them they actually managed to help my sorry booty to the top without any falls.
Quite an intense route for me.
|By Keane Anderson|
Aug 6, 2013
This route was excellent. The holds were really tiny for a 10d, but there were a lot of them in useful places. Good mental challenge.