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Do you stick clip? Why or why not?
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By Siberia
From Birmingham, AL
Sep 23, 2013
Hell yes.

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By David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Sep 24, 2013
It depends.

If I believe the risk of getting to the first bolt is higher than I wish to undertake, I will happily stick clip.

In fact, even if it is moderately risky, I will tend to stick-clip if I can.

It was having had a climbing partner fall and break a rib before clipping the first bolt on a climb that brought me from the occasionally-grab-a-piece-of-tree-and-some-climbing-tape to buy/build-a-stick-clip-device-and-bring-it-with-me camp.

Sometimes I forget it. Sometimes I don't use it, if the first bolt is low and/or the landing is good and/or the climbing is easy. But, I would rather not risk a ground-fall if I don't have to.

And, I don't feel that stick-clipping the first bolt negates an on-sight/red-point. (Beyond the first bolt... iffier.)

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By Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Sep 25, 2013
Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-f...
Like most sport climbers, yes. I usually stick-clip.

For those who don't, the question to ask yourself is: How many climbs do you do per year? How many times per year do you solo up to the first bolt? (I'd estimate 2k-10k). Is the risk of falling worth the ooooodles of exhilaration and ego-stoking you get from soloing up to the first bolt on a sport climb? I didn't think so.


And Lanky, no need to assert how tough you are. Anyone who's ever seen you sport climb (which is no one, let's be honest) can attest to that. :)

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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Sep 25, 2013
I wonder how many people that are against a stick clip would expect help/help out if they fell and broke something? I would help but it would ruin my day for something that could have been avoided.

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By doug rouse
From Denver, CO.
Sep 25, 2013
Never considered this as an ethics question. If the line to the first anchor has buckets, then run on up..if it cruxes, or has a tinyhold to pull off of, then use a stick..Ask anyone whose climbed Discipline in the Flatirons, Coffee and Cornflakes at the City...

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By lou
Sep 25, 2013
Whitney portal.....bony fingers
Stick clipping is for ladies.
Which is where the sport is headed more and more. Just cause Sharma climbs 5.15 sport doesnt make him a tough guy... there are 19 year old and less girls doing it, that would cry if you stepped on their toes or they didnt get to see the boy band of the week.
Stick clippers are often the type to call it an onsite for a pinkpoint... ethics gone to the ladies room.
cheers... lou

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By Dan Austin
From San Francisco, CA
Sep 26, 2013
lou wrote:
Stick clipping is for ladies. Which is where the sport is headed more and more. Just cause Sharma climbs 5.15 sport doesnt make him a tough guy... there are 19 year old and less girls doing it, that would cry if you stepped on their toes or they didnt get to see the boy band of the week. Stick clippers are often the type to call it an onsite for a pinkpoint... ethics gone to the ladies room. cheers... lou

If you're sport climbing because you want to be a "tough guy" you should get your head checked.

Also, this applies if you replace "sport climbing" with anything else.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 26, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!
lou wrote:
Stick clipping is for ladies. Which is where the sport is headed more and more. Just cause Sharma climbs 5.15 sport doesnt make him a tough guy... there are 19 year old and less girls doing it, that would cry if you stepped on their toes or they didnt get to see the boy band of the week. Stick clippers are often the type to call it an onsite for a pinkpoint... ethics gone to the ladies room. cheers... lou


Sexist much?

Good to know that you're keeping your 5.11s pure and masculine without stickclips.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Sep 26, 2013
El Chorro
The Stoned Master wrote:
Until this past weekend I had never stick clipped a single bolt. I was eyeing up a route and the first bolt was a bit high (relative). Not terrible but I was definitly aware of the distance between me and the first bolt. A dude had a telescoping stick clipper and offered it. I turned him down at first but ended up using his stick clip. I am totally "on the fence" about using a stick clip. The "just have fun" and be safe part of me sees the appeal of using a stick clip. But another part (or two) of me sees using a stick clip as a "robber" of the full experience. Do you use a stick clip? Why or why not?


Not reading the other responses. The answer is simple.

Someone rapped down the route and put the bolts in for you. If that doesn't keep you from climbing a line, then clipping said bolts with a stick shouldn't either.

"The full experience" of sport climbing should not include fear or the chance of getting hurt. Sport climbing is about one thing: climing as hard as you possibly can. To do that, you need to be safe.

If you want to be bold, traditional, whatever you want to call it... Go trad climbing.

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Sep 26, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
lou wrote:
Just cause Sharma climbs 5.15 sport doesnt make him a tough guy...



5.15 doesn't make you a tough guy.  Little bit.  L...
5.15 doesn't make you a tough guy. Little bit. Little bit it does.



If you quantify "tough" in barfight wins, perhaps not. But strength and mental fortitude are criteria in my book and he's lacking neither. Your argument sir, is doodoo I'm afraid.

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Sep 26, 2013
Day Lily.
Doug said: Never considered this as an ethics question.

It is interesting because I hadnt seen it posed that way before. One point of view running through my mind was "if the first ascensionist didnt stick clip should I"?
NOW I dont think others, anyone else needs to think that way. Its personal to me and I am not against stck clipping, just trying to figure out exactly how I feel and think about my own personal experience(s).

stick clipping makes sense if there is a negative (relative) consequence to me. i dont get paid to be out here (wouldnt matter anyways), I just want to create as many experiences as possible (lots of routes, lots of variety with features, route distance and difficulty). learn from them and continue moving, never stop moving...

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By shotwell
Sep 26, 2013
I've climbing a line with a very difficult to clip 4th bolt coming out of a no hands rest. When I went for the onsight, I found the clip much more difficult than any of the climbing on the route. On my second attempt I skipped the bolt (knowing that the fall was fine) and sent the route.

When I talked to the FA about the bolt placement later, I learned that he had hung a long draw and clipped that bolt from the rest. Obviously no one carries a stick clip on an attempt, but if I had known this you can bet your ass that I would have pulled one up to hang and clip that draw from the rest.

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By doligo
Sep 26, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
lou wrote:
Stick clipping is for ladies.


And 5.9 hand cracks are so badass, only worthy of tough guys.

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By Jorde
From Barcelona
Sep 26, 2013
Mega butt shot!  Aitzol, Margalef
Of course I use a stick clip. I can't climb 5.14 and those hanging draws aren't going to steal themselves

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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 26, 2013
OTL
doligo wrote:
And 5.9 hand cracks are so badass


Why yes. Yes, they are.

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By chuffnugget
From Bolder, CO
Sep 26, 2013
LOL Jorde

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By dave wave
Sep 26, 2013
sierras
When something is either gonna keep me safe (OR) possible jack me up...i usually go with keepin it safe. Who cares about the style when it comes to something basic like that. If you get f-ed up bad enough it'll keep you from climbing...and that's the last thing you prob want.

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By Lanky
From Portland, ME
Sep 26, 2013
The Stoned Master wrote:
Doug said: Never considered this as an ethics question. It is interesting because I hadnt seen it posed that way before. One point of view running through my mind was "if the first ascensionist didnt stick clip should I"? NOW I dont think others, anyone else needs to think that way. Its personal to me and I am not against stck clipping, just trying to figure out exactly how I feel and think about my own personal experience(s). stick clipping makes sense if there is a negative (relative) consequence to me. i dont get paid to be out here (wouldnt matter anyways), I just want to create as many experiences as possible (lots of routes, lots of variety with features, route distance and difficulty). learn from them and continue moving, never stop moving...


The question about what the first ascensionist did and whether it should change how you approach the route is one of style, not ethics. The only person affected by your decision is you.

Now, if you decide not to stick clip a high first bolt with a tricky sequence just below, or solo to a first bolt on rock that may be suspect, while relying on the kindness of strangers for possible emergency response... Well, that might be a question of ethics.

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By Taylor J
From new mexico, new england
Sep 26, 2013
"Scott" at the tunnel
Since moving from New England my local area now is the tunnel in southern New Mexico. Known for its hard bouldery sport climbs. The crag sits on a steep hill side with a thin landing below the climbs. Most of the climbs start with a very high first bolt, it was intended to stick clip here and if you did not I would say your pretty dumb. Risking an ankle or leg injury or falling off the landing does not seem worth it. Especially seeing how most of the starts are hard and bouldery. I see nothing wrong with stick clipping as a precaution anywhere you are climbing regardless of the grade, there are no rules in this sport just ethics do what you are comfortable with fuck the rest.

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By GabeO
From Denver, CO
Nov 20, 2013
Peter Jackson wrote:
Here in Rumney, a stick clip on the first bolt is common, expected in certain places, and in most cases would not negate a redpoint. Stick clipping the second bolt would negate a redpoint.


Even for Rumney, that's an overgeneralization. On Things As They Are Now, the first bolt is in a bad place. Your best bet is to skip B1 and stick clip B2.

In this pic you'll see bolt 1 just above my left foot:



The crux is right above B1. Very jarring to fall on it repeatedly. Better to skip it and clip B2. It also keeps the rope out of the way - think about where it would lie in the pic above if it were clipped to B1.

GO

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By Sendstown
Nov 20, 2013
I only bring my stick climb on long multi-pitch bolted aid routes. Everyone tells me I am a sissy but I think its better to be safe than sorry.

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By Ian Stewart
Nov 20, 2013
GabeO wrote:
Even for Rumney, that's an overgeneralization. On Things As They Are Now, the first bolt is in a bad place. Your best bet is to skip B1 and stick clip B2.


I don't really care which bolt it is, if I'm going to stick clip a climb I'll clip the highest one I can reach from the ground with my 8ft stick. If there's more than one bolt within that space then the first bolt was probably bolted to low to begin with anyways.

I don't just stick clip to protect myself, I also do it to protect my belayer. If the belay area is sketchy, clipping into something will prevent you both from tumbling down a hill or into a cactus or something in the case of a fall. Similarly, taking a fall onto a low first bolt has a good chance of launching my belayer's face up into my flailing feet, especially since I'm 60lbs heavier than my usual belayer (115lbs vs 175lbs). So, even if it wouldn't necessarily be a groundfall, I'll do whatever I can to make the climb safer for everyone involved.

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 21, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
Good morning haters. Dont know if this point has been addressed above, but some first bolts are intentionally placed to be stick-clipped and would be nearly impossible to clip by climbing to them.

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By Mark Orsag
Nov 21, 2013
Absolutely. When the start is near my limit (and a bit runout off the ground) or the rock quality looks uncertain.

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By 5.samadhi
Nov 21, 2013
me
I stick clip trad routes :/

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