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DMZ 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: swain/cody 82
Page Views: 690
Submitted By: john strand on Apr 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Mike Z

Description 

Worth doing especially if saigon is full. Decent rock and nice climbing, though sometimes wet. A companion route Rose Madder is also usually wet.

Location 

Just left of Saigon 15' before all the grung. Rap off- 60m rope ???

Protection 

a couple of bolts (maybe 1 dowel) and maybe a small piece for the runout (5.6/7) , bolt anchor


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By Andrew Hewitt
From: Somerville
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

A 60m rope will not get you down from the rappel if you climb all the way to Airation Buttress (in fact I'm not really sure you're supposed to go all the way up there - just what I did). You can rap to another rap station about halfway down though. Very fun route at the beginning, but if you're not comfortable running out 5.6 terrain for 40 or so feet at the top, maybe not a good choice. You do get a small cam placement at the top however.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 28, 2015

is the belay gone ? it was maybe 90' up. 3 bolts
By Andrew Hewitt
From: Somerville
Sep 29, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Maybe I just totally missed it - but I didn't see any other bolts after the last one except for a station about 20 feet right of that last bolt. Is that where the climb is supposed to end? I just kept going straight up!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 29, 2015

maybe it took a hit from the recent rockfall ? There's also a route just left Rose Madder that i think has a higher belay
By Andrew Hewitt
From: Somerville
Sep 29, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

I must have climbed Rose Madder then. There were maybe 4-5 bolts/pins (it seems like it shares the first two bolts of DMZ) and it went straight up through the mini roof in the pic here. Thanks for the info!

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