Mountain Project Logo

Dmm Revolver carabiner for rope drag

Original Post
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

Just curious what the consensus on these carabiners is. I've had a few partners who have had one or two on their rack, but I never got a chance to place them.

If the pitch you are on has a large change in direction (ie horizontal traverse), would you benefit more from a quickdraw with a Dmm Revolver on the rope end, or a shoulder length sling? The benefit of using both together is clear, I'm just curious how well the revolver actually works on it's own.

Also, how well does the revolver help prevent your cam from walking?

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 650

If I was doing a 90 degree direction change on a pitch, I think I would rather have the revolver. They really do a great job of cutting drag. You can actually feel the wheel moving as you pull rope. It is a strange sensation.

As far as keeping a cam from walking, I've never used one for that purpose.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

if you are going to use a revolver put it on a 120 cm sling ... you can vary the length as much as you want

using the revolver on a quickdraw is a waste

also consider locking the revolver in place with a clove hitch if using skinnier slings if you have a good stance (make sure its snug so it doesnt rotate, otherwise you lose the benefits

and get the locking version .. your spending the extra weight anyways and if you use a revolver its probably a "no fail" point on a traverse for the leader or second anyways

;)

Steven Kovalenko · · Calgary · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

These are really good for reducing rope drag on long pitches when alpine simul-climbing with the entire rope out. They are great in gullies and couloirs. Reducing rope drag makes you climb faster as a team, with less effort on the leader.

I always use them on a 60cm or 120cm sling. The carabiner also stands in for the 2nd pulley in your crevasse rescue setup. One Revolver per person has been enough in my experience. Save them for the biggest directional changes on the pitch.

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

My 9.9mm rope has a habit of not running directly over the bearing, which seems to reduce the pulley efficiency. I haven't had the occasion to try with skinnier ropes.

Bob Johnson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 192
bearbreeder wrote:also consider locking the revolver in place with a clove hitch if using skinnier slings if you have a good stance (make sure its snug so it doesnt rotate, otherwise you lose the benefits
So...not too worried about the reduction in sling strength for a clove hitch? Mammut says clove hitches only reduce their contact slings by 25%. So they are still good to about 16.5kN even with the clove. Seems fine to me...but just wondering
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Bob Johnson wrote: So...not too worried about the reduction in sling strength for a clove hitch? Mammut says clove hitches only reduce their contact slings by 25%. So they are still good to about 16.5kN even with the clove. Seems fine to me...but just wondering
its fine ... as long as yr far enough out from the belay, which you will be if yr using extended revolvers to minimize draw. you wont be taking a high factor fall on it

remember that even 10KN is plenty for a trad piece ...

;)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Dmm Revolver carabiner for rope drag"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.