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DMM Pivot Long Term Review

Original Post
Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Recently wrote a review of my DMM pivot, which I've been using for the last 8 months or so! I know there been some recent discussion of the device but I figured people might appreciate a longer writeup. Cheers!

maxforbes.squarespace.com/w…

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

device hardly makes lowering in plaquette mode easier. The advantage gained from the pivoting axle is negated by the smaller slots of the plate. The device does work very well with ropes under 10mm.

in response to your comment, "guides only use gri gris for lowering.." this is not true. My preferred method for lowering is always a redirected plate- Whether I am lowering my partner OR victim, litter, and attendant in a full on vertical rescue.

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

Your pic of lowering in guide mode isn't quite right. For the backup to 'work' the brake strand should be redirected 'up' to the anchor, through a biner clipped to the anchor and down to your backup Prussik. See how by opening the device with the sling in the pic you've basically taken the belay device out of the system and the climber's strand is pretty much hanging off a rounded biner? By redirecting the brake you'll keep the brake strand in the device channel and it'll be a lot safer to lower! Because you posted this review presenting yourself as knowledgable on the use of the device I think it's crucial this be fixed ASAP.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Medic741 wrote:Because you posted this review presenting yourself as knowledgable on the use of the device I think it's crucial this be fixed ASAP.
You did notice that he says "backup not pictured"?

Take a look at what Black Diamond has to say about this, 2:40 or so

youtu.be/KM5c9wlTReo?t=172
Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108
Medic741 wrote:Your pic of lowering in guide mode isn't quite right. For the backup to 'work' the brake strand should be redirected 'up' to the anchor, through a biner clipped to the anchor and down to your backup Prussik. See how by opening the device with the sling in the pic you've basically taken the belay device out of the system and the climber's strand is pretty much hanging off a rounded biner? By redirecting the brake you'll keep the brake strand in the device channel and it'll be a lot safer to lower! Because you posted this review presenting yourself as knowledgable on the use of the device I think it's crucial this be fixed ASAP.
I specifically didn't do this, and specifically noted that I didn't so that you can see how the device looks in this setup. I do appreciate your concern for my safety but please consider reading through the post before commenting on the pictures.
Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108
Brendan Mulhern wrote:device hardly makes lowering in plaquette mode easier. The advantage gained from the pivoting axle is negated by the smaller slots of the plate. The device does work very well with ropes under 10mm. in response to your comment, "guides only use gri gris for lowering.." this is not true. My preferred method for lowering is always a redirected plate- Whether I am lowering my partner OR victim, litter, and attendant in a full on vertical rescue.
As I mentioned, I don't find lowering with the device any easier. What I do find better is feeding small amounts of slack.

In regards to your preference for lowering, I certainly didn't say ONLY, but in my experience for top managed sites most people chose the GriGri, but not everyone. I do certainly appreciate your feedback and should be careful when generalizing.
Billcoe · · Pacific Northwet · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 930

Until I can tone up my critical asswipe snarky comment mode to run with some of the other Mt Project users (not this thread of course) I'll say that I thought the review was damned good Max. I know that the nitpicker gang will also be here soon to discuss "your" and "you're" as well. Thanks for sharing. Damned fine review.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266
Billcoe wrote:Until I can tone up my critical asswipe snarky comment mode to run with some of the other Mt Project users (not this thread of course) I'll say that I thought the review was damned good Max. I know that the nitpicker gang will also be here soon to discuss "your" and "you're" as well. Thanks for sharing. Damned fine review.
Well hey, if he didn't want critique he should not have posted on a climbing forum, kind of the point no?

I would agree with Medic741 although instead of changing the picture I would just emphasize the fact there is no backup shown with bold and repeat in large text in the caption. An incorrect lowering method is shown and pictures speak louder than words.

I though it was an informative and terse review.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Medic741 wrote:Your pic of lowering in guide mode isn't quite right. For the backup to 'work' the brake strand should be redirected 'up' to the anchor, through a biner clipped to the anchor and down to your backup Prussik.
Not necessarily. It's fine to use a Munter on the harness on the brake strand. I much prefer that approach if I have to lower someone in guide mode. It's generally easy to set up (you do need another HMS locker), I find it more controllable, and it eliminates what I see as the potential (with the redirected-up-higher brake strand) to rub the moving rope against loaded anchor cordage.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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