|Redgarden - Tower Two
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA: ||TR: John Paine|
FA (post-retrobolt): Bret Ruckman & Bruce Miller, 1997
|Fixed Hardware: ||6 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]|
|Page Views: ||1,070|
|Submitted By: ||Josh Janes on Sep 5, 2003|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
[This route was originally TR'd by John Paine and friend in the 80s and called Dizzy Miss Lizzy for John's girl friend Liz who accompanied the climbers and was uncomfortable with the [exposure] of the East Slabs. John gave permission for the retro bolting, but ask that the name to remain. Retro-named] Scrutiny on the Bounty, [it] is located on the "Wall of Holes" which is basically in a deep cleft/gully on Tower Two, just above the top-out of Redguard. The route climbs up behind a large pine tree that is growing out of this gully and was quite easy to find.
This route is really, really fun, well-protected, and steep! In fact, there probably isn't an 11 move on the climb but surviving the pump is what probably give it the grade.
Make an awkward stretch to a huge jug and make the first clip here. Continue up on incredible huecos to the fifth bolt, and pull onto the slab and a sixth bolt. The crux is probably the transition to the slab where you must step left and making a technical reach to a hidden, incut edge.
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
|Comments on Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)
|By John Payne|
May 18, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
I found this route one day after doing the Edge, and I also remember that Christian had done something near it. Me and Rick Dirkson top-roped it and we called it Dizzy Miss Lizzy because my wife (then girl-friend) was totally petrified being up there. I tied my supertape chalk bag belt around her wrist as a form of belay to get her across the exposed parts on the way up.
|By Bret Ruckman|
Nov 13, 2007
John, thanks for sharing the story behind the name "Dizzy Miss Lizzy". I'm okay with keeping that original name for this fun route.
|By Clint Locks|
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Happened upon this random route for the first time yesterday. Well bolted for Eldo! Tough start, slabby finish, and lots of fun in-between. Definitely worth a run after topping out on Anthill Direct or any of its neighbors.