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Dixon Lake

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Dixon Lake 


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Location: 33.1607, -117.046 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 56,615
Administrators: Marc Kajut, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006
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Dixon Lake
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

The Place 

This oldie but goody lies in north Escondido, in the city park of Dixon Lake. This climbing area is a small outcrop of rocks, that has several clean cracks and faces for the novice/intermediate to set up. Its been used and abused, with partiers and cavalier bolters having their way with the place, but beyond the ill-treated history lies several routes that will remain worthy of many new climbers aspirations. Some bouldering exists, although compared to other areas it may seem a bit contrived.

Locals have done every line on every boulder and recorded so. Its history dates back to the 70's, but the real action took place in the 80's/early 90's. In the 80's folks like Andy Redding, Tim Gallagher and Ed Worsman cleaned up several lines and laid the way for the 90's with the likes of Verdugo, DanO, Stackhouse and several others. Prior to regional guidebooks, this area was known as Eagles Peak.


Getting There 

Via I15, exit El Norte Parkway and head east. Follow this for about 4 miles until the park sign appears to one's left. Turn left here on La Honda Drive. Following this one mile up the steep road, where one can get a glimpse of the crags on the right up on the hill. At the park entrance, follow the signs to "Trout Cove" parking lot. Park here and jog across the road to a trail that gives one a visual of the first part of Dixon Lake Crags in about 30 seconds. There is a $5 per vehicle day-use charge on weekends and holidays. Because of the potential problem with poaching, visitors to the rocks are encouraged to observe the closing time of the lake to avoid a potential citation. Entrance is free during the week.


Climbing Season


38 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',16],['5.11',8],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dixon Lake:
The Y Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   The Y Crack Area
Butthole Express   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport   The Y Crack Area
Eagles Peak   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, TR, 35'   Eagles Peak Area
Hairy Airy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 35'   The Y Crack Area
The Shoulder   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR   The Roof Area
Overhanging Buckets   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 17'   Eagles Peak Area
MTV   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 20'   Eagles Peak Area
Blood and Roses   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 25'   The Prowe Area
The Roof   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR   The Roof Area
Double D   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR   The Roof Area
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Chopped Suey)   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 18'   Eagles Peak Area
Triple D   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR   The Roof Area
The Prowe   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR, 30'   The Prowe Area
Overhanging Face   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 18'   Eagles Peak Area
Browse More Classics in Dixon Lake

Featured Route For Dixon Lake
The Shoulder (5.10a) ascends the rightmost crack in the image...outstanding!

The Shoulder 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : San Diego County : ... : The Roof Area
This is the crack climb of Dixon Lake. Fingers to fist, this crack climb is truly a classic and a standard for the grade. It is the very clean crack on the right side of The Roof wall. The crux is entering the bulge portion of the crack, halfway up. A right foot is the key before liebacking a move or two to a couple of left traversing moves at the finish. Highly Recommended....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Dixon Lake Slideshow Add Photo
Trout cove parking area
BETA PHOTO: Trout cove parking area
An old topo of mine
An old topo of mine
Dixon Lake Climbing Area
BETA PHOTO: Dixon Lake Climbing Area
Leave on time
BETA PHOTO: Leave on time
RIP.  I was working the day this fellow fell.
RIP. I was working the day this fellow fell.
The Infamouse Y Crack!!!
The Infamouse Y Crack!!!
Comments on Dixon Lake Add Comment
Show which comments
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Dec 27, 2007

The entire park was closed for Christmas Day, 2007. Nobody was allowed in. Bummer.

By Fins129
Nov 14, 2008

Careful about going on Saturday mornings. A few organized groups climb here. Once saw 3 groups of about 10-15 people each climbing here. It didn't leave many climbs left to climb. But still a fun area.

By steemo
Apr 21, 2009

The park fee as of 4/18/09 is now $5.

By Russell
Mar 22, 2011

FYI, Dogs are NOT allowed in the park. the wife and i took the dog with us when we went to climb and found we had wasted a trip.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jan 30, 2012

I was just a kid when I was introduced to this area by a climbing friend. I was obsessed with climbing history books. I would do Y Crack and Hairy A and pretend I was way up high on Half Dome or El Cap. I still remember the first time I did TR'd these routes and how great it felt to do them on lead with gear.
This place will always be special to me and I hope it will remain open and mostly clean.

By Nick Ashforth
Dec 22, 2012

Pretty grungy place. Losers love to hang out and trash the place. If you see any taggers, feel free to show them the trail out, or how hard granite is. Overall, though, pretty food top ropes with a wide range of ratings all in one big clump.

There is a parking fee of $5 per vehicle(12/22/12), but only on holidays and weekends. Dogs are not allowed.

By tom donnelly
Sep 16, 2013

Just to be even more obvious with directions,
the crag is just west of Trout Cove, which is the western end of the lake.