The good: Really fun holds, side pulls, and pockets.
The bad: it faces south, so it's hot. Lots of broken glass at the base (be careful with your shoes!). The paint used to paint Dixie made for one slippery hold.
This is a popular rappelling spot, but it's also a really fun climb.
This route is at the famous Dixie Overlook, in St. George, UT. goo.gl/maps/cqryl
To start the route, hike to the top of the the overlook and set up your rope. You'll want at least 2 8ft slings, a little bit longer would be good, to hang a carabiner over the ledge (minimizing wear on the rope). You can walk down the trail, towards the parking lot, and around to get to the base of the cliff.
The route is just left of the D for "Dixie".
Two bolts, rebar for back-up.
BETA PHOTO: Route is marked with yellow.
BETA PHOTO: In which the location of the rebar, bolts are seen...
Mar 29, 2016
As of mid March 2016, the bolts are absolutely horrendous. The pair of bolts above the "I" in "DIXIE" are literally wiggling out of the sandstone. DO NOT USE THEM. I was with a canyoneer who has rigged some sketchy anchors but even he said there was no way he was weighting those bolts.
Be safe, this rock is awesome.
By Tim Harper
Apr 3, 2016
Great info; I didn't even see those bolts when I did it years ago. I ran a sling from the anchors on the top a good 4 feet from the ledge, of which there were three. Those seemed reliable.