||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Vern Clevenger, Eric Schoen & Rob Frick, November 1973|
|Page Views: ||66|
|Submitted By: ||sibylle on Jul 12, 2009|
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Pitch 1, Dixie Peach
Pitch 1. Head up an easy flake system for about 40 feet. At the top of the flake, follow a small left-facing corner until it ends. (South Crack traverses right from here to the next crack to the right). From the end of the corner, climb on friction, passing a bolt (5.9 move), to a bolted anchor.
Pitch 2. The second pitch heads up and slightly left on friction. According to one older topo, there should be a bolt anchor, which we never found. We belayed at a small ledge with a small crack.
Pitch 3. Friction climbing leads up to the small cracks above the top of the Great White Book and a gear anchor.
Pitch 4. Meander up easy terrain to the top of the Great White Book and another gear anchor.
Warning: There once was a bolted anchor, which has been removed. I saw the remains of several bolts. With a 60-meter rope, we were able to reach small flakes and cracks to place an anchor. Depending on how long you run the pitches, this can be climbed in more or fewer pitches.
Dixie Peach and South Crack share the same start. Climb third-class slabs to a large ledge to the right of the Great White Book.
Small wires on the first corner and cams up to a #2 Camalot.
South Crack and Dixie Peach diverge on this small ...
Hal on pitch 1 of Dixie Peach
Starting up the corner of Dixie Peach
By Ed Henicle
Aug 5, 2014
We climbed P1 and rapped off with 2 60's. The bottom half of the 160' pitch is easy and fun. The 5.9 move over the left facing horn is not bad, and protects with a bomber .75. There is ~15 ft of runout after that move, you get a small cam, then on to easier territory that protects with small gear. The pitch finishes with a spicy 5.9 face move that is well protected by a bolt. Great 1 pitch option on Stately Pleasure!