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Cactus Cliff
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Divinity School 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Rick Thompson, Don Silver, 1999
Page Views: 599
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Mar 20, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).

Description 

A pretty fun climb. Unfortunately, its squeezed between two crack systems making the intended line fairly inobvious. Locate the bolted crack, I Clauidius, and a partially bolted/trad line to the left. The next fully bolted line to the left is Divinity School.

Begin the lower section by climbing a crack feature to a cruxy move past the fourth bolt to a horizontal break. Rest here then continue up the pink face to the anchors. We climbed the upper section by first starting in a crack system to the right, then traversing past a nice sidepull move to a hueco, then traversing left again to a hand crack which we climbed to the anchors. Felt like low-5.12a. The section above the last bolt looked like it could be contrived direct (and thus maybe 12b??), but the hand crack is right there.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor


Photos of Divinity School Slideshow Add Photo
At the crux.
At the crux.
Matt leading Divinity School.
Matt leading Divinity School.
Enjoying a warm December day. Photo credit: Curt Dvonch.
Enjoying a warm December day. Photo credit: Curt D...

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By slim
Administrator
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a fun route which doesn't really get that much traffic. From below, it looks like there are no holds - but they keep magically appearing in the right places. The final headwall would be pretty hard without using the crack to the left.