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West Buttress aka Comedy Wall
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Divine Wind 
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Divine Wind 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Sharp and Carry, 1979
Page Views: 977
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 24, 2002
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On the awkward 5.9 approach.

Photo by Paul Rezuch...
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  • Description 

    Thin stemming on high quality granite.

    This writeup only discusses the first pitch which is all most people are going to be interested in. The second pitch is said to be 11b and very serious. Anyone care to add a description of P2?

    P1. Start at the left end of Blob Rock, below a prominent clean, right facing corner which starts about 30' above the ground. The corner is visible in the Blob Rock perspective photo, just right of the top of a pine tree in the foreground and left of a prominent slab/bald-spot. (From the Bolt Cola area, walk left a couple of hundred yards and scramble up some ledges to reach the start.)

    Some moderate, better-than-it-looks climbing leads to the corner proper. Place a good upward directional to protect the small nuts that will follow. Stem upward placing good small stoppers and RPs. The crux is at the top of the corner and can be partially avoided by stepping left around the arrete which the old Erickson guidebook said made the pitch 10+.

    There is a fixed anchor at the end of the pitch, but continuing on Bearcat is highly recommended.

    P2. On the second pitch you have to do the hardest moves before you get gear in, so it is a potential ankle-breaker, certainly "R-rated". It is of similar difficulty to the first pitch, though the hard part is pretty brief. It is also possible to finish the route with the Wounded Knee roof.


    Protection 

    Mainly small nuts with some fingers to hands cams for the bottom.



    Photos of Divine Wind Slideshow Add Photo
    Protecting another difficult 9 move on the approach. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
    Protecting another difficult 9 move on the approac...
    Unknown party on P1 of Divine Wind.
    Unknown party on P1 of Divine Wind.
    Unknown party topping out above the RPs on Divine Wind.
    Unknown party topping out above the RPs on Divine ...
    Divine Wind.  Climb up a steep, right-facing stemming dihedral.
    BETA PHOTO: Divine Wind. Climb up a steep, right-facing stemm...
    Trying to figure out the complicated first crux. The goal is to get into a higher stem with the right foot on the arete above the bulge on the right wall. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
    Trying to figure out the complicated first crux. T...
    Comments on Divine Wind Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 7, 2006

    Finally got on this as the first climb of my brother Paul's 4-day visit. A bit too ambitious for me, as I struggled on the 9 approach, got the first hard move into the stem, then hung a bunch figuring out the next moves into the higher stem. Lowered from there and Paul led through the upper crux clean. I was unable to get it clean on TR.

    Neither of us could figure out the 10d "escape" out L. Perhaps it's at the very top.

    Gear for the approach is red and gold Camalot and green and yellow Aliens. Then small brass protect the first crux. Paul placed 3 good small nuts to protect the final crux.

    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Nov 11, 2006

    Ivan is right about the nuts protecting the crux, however.... a few years ago I belayed a friend leading who fell at the crux resulting in snapping the cable of the first nut, yanking out the second, then snapping the cable of the 3rd nut! (it's possible that both of the nuts that snapped had worn or kinked cables) The 4th piece, a small blue TCU held the whipper. So be careful of what you place there.

    By George K. Watson
    From: Nederland, CO
    Jul 6, 2010

    A very nice climb when combined with Wounded Knee to top out. The pro is really good the whole way with small stuff. I have only done the original finish once, a million years ago, on the dull end and I remember my friend Andy Burnham, who would lead anything, commenting that it was pretty dicey. It certainly seemed he had done a load of hard moves before he got anything in.