|Some areas require a guide.|
From the top of the Malice Boulder, this route is located on the shoulder immediately to the right of Paul Bunyon Chimney.
P1 Climb well featured rock as you angle up and right towards Urinal Ledge to 2 bolt anchor.
P2 First bolt off of Urinal Ledge is to the left and up about 6 feet. Follow featured rock up to the headwall, wandering right past a rusted 1/4" bolt, and then continue without gear to a large ledge at the base of a few short cracks. You can traverse further right on this pitch and start clipping the bolts of Brain Dead/All The Nasties, or move left off the belay and pick up some mystery bolts that randomly appear.
P3 is 18' of 2" hand crack to reach summit via 5.5 climbing. Use gear and natural features to set anchor.
Walk off to climbers left towards Laguna Prieta. Be sure to scramble down to a break in the wall before reaching the lagoon. Continue back across toward the Front Side and Lunch Rocks.
Note: Descent can take as long as 20 minutes even if you know where you are going.
Divine Wind by the guidebooks description may not exist. This route (Divine Wind II?) starts outside of the chimney on the shoulder of the formation. I did not see any bolts or routes that were starting up inside the chimney.
Pitch 1 - 4 bolts plus 2 bolt anchor @ Urinal Ledge.
Pitch 2 - 2 bolts, one right off the belay, the other higher up, small, and rusted.
Pitch 3 - short and easy 2" handcrack to summit.
Make your own anchor using 1" cams and/or slung features.
Starting moves just outside the Paul Bunyon chimne...
If you are lucky, you might find this time bomb be...
Near the anchor at the top of the first pitch
Russ higher on the second pitch, looking for bolts...
Russ starting the second pitch and wondering where...
The easy hand crack that is the last pitch
|By Russ Walling|
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
This is a pretty good route if you like being off route and way way runout. It appears we went directly between All the Nasties and Brain Dead on the second pitch. I would suggest trying to pickup either of those bolts lines and following them instead of the one rusted bolt option I used. The climbing is pretty good though.
|By J. Nickel|
Mar 1, 2013
The first pitch up to the two-bolt anchor is reasonably protected with decent-looking Petzl bolts and is about 5.7. You can toprope the first pitch of All the Nasties (5.9 with well-spaced protection) from this anchor if desired.
Jan 1, 2014
The second pitch is a fun and easy climb. First bolt is to the left of the anchor, the second bolt is about half way up when you get to the short headwall. This pitch is easily protected with small cams and nuts, with an abundance of small pockets, seams and flakes. Feels much easier than a 5.8 rating.