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Dissing Euros 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,388
Submitted By: Mike Stearns on Aug 23, 2011

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Crappy old photo of the final hard pull on Dissing...

Description 

Start left of happy hunting grounds on thin sidepulls and edges. Throw hard for the upper holds.

Location 

Happy hunting grounds boulder. Start on the arete left of HHG and continue up and left.

Protection 

Pad


Photos of Dissing Euros Slideshow Add Photo
Dissing Euros, Colm Fitzgerald. Always hard to sho...
Dissing Euros, Colm Fitzgerald. Always hard to sho...
Pat topping out Dissing Euros
Pat topping out Dissing Euros

Comments on Dissing Euros Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 3, 2015
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 24, 2011

Sit-start is V6, stand-start is V4. Head up and left. Best problem of its grade in Happy Hunting Grounds.
By Mike Stearns
Aug 30, 2011

The base must be affected by erosion. The "stand start" involved stacking two pads for me (5'11") and one pad for my partner (6'a lot").
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 30, 2011

For as long as I can remember, the "stand" start has always been a reach for me (6'), and since the low moves flow so nicely, I simply worked it from the sit, not the stand. This is a problem that is actually more awkward to stand-start than to sit-start, because you seem to be entering the problem at a weird transition.
By Mike Stearns
Sep 2, 2011

I totally agree. I have no historical perspective for that erosion comment. I guess I was just assuming based on how awkward it felt.
By Bob Banks
Sep 6, 2011

The stand start has always been a stretch.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Oct 2, 2011

Stand start is a stretch? Where is the V4 stand start? On the sidepull and juggy crimp about 7ft up? And the V6 sit start is on the tiny crimps about waste height? What about the "middle way" stand start on the chest high left sidepull/crimp and either right undercling/sidepull crimp or further right sidepull. That seemed on the hard side of V4, but probably good. I can't wait to go back to it, I think I have good beta for the "mahayana start"...
By Luke Hetzel
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 16, 2011
rating: V5-6 6C+

I agree I feel like their is an intermediate start between the sit and REACHY stand start.. I am 5'8" and started easily with holds about chest height, but there were holds lower I could have sat down for, although it only added one move that didn't add much difficulty.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 28, 2012

The right-hand crimp for the sit-start is visibly flexing. It's only going to be a matter of days...
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
May 20, 2013

Good call Andy. I just went up there this weekend and lo and behold, broken right hand crimp. Guess what though? It still goes and at the same grade. How lucky.
By Ben Parsons
Jun 19, 2014
rating: V6 7A

The sit is extremely difficult for V6, but starting from the move after the start is probably the softest 6 at Pine. This problem is in grade purgatory.
By Sean Crozier
Jun 21, 2014
rating: V7 7A+

Yeah it's tough. With a full-on-butt-in-the-dirt-sit, I think its harder than 911 and Full Contactů
By Bob Banks
Jun 21, 2014

The left hand start hold used to be a pretty good block/undercling that broke off a few years ago. A bit of it is still there, but nothing like the original. The original right hand broke off also, as discussed up the thread. Found some video of me in my younger years making it look fairly easy. No doubt I couldn't pull my ass off the ground these days.

Dissing Euros
.
By Phil Requist
Jun 23, 2014

Footage of Ratso - rad.
By Sean Crozier
Jun 27, 2014
rating: V7 7A+

Ok so I just climbed this yesterday using the left starting hold in Bobs video after doing Full-Contact, 911, and Mayday. I think Dissing Euros is easier than Full-Contact, on par with Mayday but still harder than 911. Thats just my opinion
By Bob Banks
Jul 2, 2014

Hey Sean, would be interested to know which left-hand start hold you normally used, since it obviously isn't the blocky undercling I always used?
By Sean Crozier
Jul 5, 2014
rating: V7 7A+

I used a very small crimp that's about head high when sitting, that made pulling your ass out the dirt super tough. Your way is dialed for sure.

On a different note, did Tank Murdock ever get finished? I looked at it two days ago and thought it looked super cool. Does it start on the sloper? Also, where does it finish?
By Bob Banks
Jul 13, 2014

No idea about Tank Murdock Sean. I can barely even remember what it looks like.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 29, 2015

Okay, so this thread REALLY doesn't need more talk about grades, starting-holds, and other quibbling, but I'm a new dad, and since it's hard to get out very often, I find myself trolling the internet. So here goes:

Mary, Oliver (my 9 month son), and I camped out at Pine Mountain this last weekend, and I did a couple of laps on Dissing Euros "for old time's sake". For the left hand on the sit-start, I used what will hereafter be known as the "Sean Crozier Crimp", referred to in an earlier post. It's small, sharp, and immensely painful if it's hot out. I have this thing pretty wired, but man, it's not a giveaway from the full sit, and while I personally believe it's easier than 911 (sorry Sean), it ain't by much.

So good, though. Did multiple laps, just for the joy of it. My son was super stoked for some reason. No idea why.
By Tim King
Jul 3, 2015
rating: V6 7A

Yeah I worked the sit long ago with that sharp left crimp, but the positioning never felt good to the point I just always did it from the half-stand.

After finally seeing Bob's beta (really low left hand to start, almost on the ground), it somehow flows so much smoother and actually makes the start feel fun. The comparison to 911 can be a tough call, as I feel like if your 6ft+, 911 is pretty mellow (easy to reach the good crimp from the good foot), but seems harder for shorties. Either way they are pretty close difficulty wise, and worth jumping on both and feeling it out for yourself.
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