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Aggro Gully
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Disposable Heros 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: 
Season: Most
Page Views: 568
Submitted By: Ryan Palo on Sep 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

A good flow route with moderately difficult movement throughout. It begins by climbing the overhanging section of The Quickening, where you must traverse left on pumping jugs. You wont encounter a single stopper move, most plummet near the top on relatively decent holds.

You'll be tempted to climb to the right at the top, into The Quickening. Do not do this. Locals lower down in the gully will snear and invalidate you ascent.

Location 

Upper right wall. Top of the slab.

Protection 

Bolts!


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By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I think 13b seems fair for this one. I definitely don't agree with the 13c given in the guidebook, but I think it is a bit of a sandbag at 13a. The "power-endurance" nature of Disposable puts it in the same vein as Times Up and Churning in my mind, but I found it to be more difficult than either of these routes. The lack of feet at the rest jug above the roof makes for a not-so-relaxing break and it's all business from there to the chains. Having watched quite a few friends (of all sizes) climb this route, I feel like most agree with the 13b grade.

Regardless, it's a fun route with great movement and bad rock. Chances are good that if you climb this route any more than a few months from now, many holds won't resemble the ones I used. Some get better, most get worse. Just the cycle of life in the Aggro Gully I suppose.
By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Apr 30, 2014

Given that the route has not 1, but 4 solid resting spots, Id say it's a lot less continuous than the routes you mentioned. Combined with a lack of a distinct crux, I think 13a is totally fair.

I will say this route is continually evolving and it's entirely possible that at some point in the near future it could be much harder.
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Four rest spots if you're Ryan Palo. . .

. . .and you include the ground and the jug at the anchors.
By Andrew Hunzicker
Jun 8, 2014

and another question: current guidebook has 4 letter grades between quickening and disposable. I think two letters harder for disposable (my opinion), so not sure if would be 13b and 12d or 13a and 12c. 4 letters is too much! for me its right about same difficulty as aggro monkey and about same as times up.
By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Jun 9, 2014

I used to kid around about it being 13a, now Im pretty sure it's a low end 13a. Recently one of the worse holds on the route, which was in the mid crux(section where you surf out the the crescent rest) broke into a nice sidepull.

Is this route really as hard as Scene of the Crime? Does it have moves anywhere as hard as the lower section of Aggro Monkey? Does it feel a letter grade easier than Crime Wave or Lucky Pigeon?
By danieljordan
Aug 28, 2014

I agree with Eric on this one. I can see how having limitless sources of endurance might make this one feel 13a, but in my opinion, a notch harder than other 13a routes at Smith. "Churning in the Gully" is an appropriate name for the route. Too bad the rock quality isn't a bit better.