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Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Disneyland 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett, Tim Hansen, and Jane Ruth, 2009. Pitch 2: Gillett and Paul Bodnar, 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,341
Submitted By: Bernard Gillett on Aug 2, 2009

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Working on the first ascent of the "Direct" Route ...

Description 

In 1961, Jim Disney climbed a route that came to be known as "Direct," 5.6 A4 (from Fricke's 1970s guide); it involved a "black, evil chimney," though that was nearly the extent of the description. Direct begins near the center of the wall (about 40 feet left of where the approach trail meets the cliff), and nails up into a deep, dark slot (the evil chimney) about 130 feet off the ground, and perhaps 30 feet right of the second pitch of Maternal Damnation. Disneyland climbs the arete immediately left of Direct, and then crosses over it on its second pitch.

P1. Boulder up to a ledge beneath the big white scar a little left of center (site of an old mine), and walk right on the ledge to a belay stance (flake out your rope here). Climb into a steep groove peppered with quartz crystals, and work along the left side of an arete past 7 bolts (5.10c) to a good stance on the arete (chains).

P2. Continue along the left edge of the chimney (4 bolts and a cam in an overlap, 5.10c), and then cross over its top into the crack system emanating from it. Step right after 15-20 feet (double sling at a horizontal crack for protection) and work up a steepening wall (4 bolts, 5.10) to a good stance with chains. The easy finish can be protected with a cam if desired.

Rappel the route to descend (95 feet, 80 feet). As shown in the topo, I've top roped an additional 200 feet above the current high point of the route. The first half of this is easy; the 2nd half pulls through a 5.10- overhang and then follows a right-leaning 5.8/5.9 half-pipe (bordered on the left by an attractive dike). At present, I'm of the opinion that it may not be worth adding more bolts to protect this stretch (it would be X-rated on gear as there is very little opportunity for protection).


Location 

Start on the right side of the ledge (gained via an easy, short boulder problem) that sits at the base of the mine hole near the center of the crag, and 15 feet below and right of the start to Maternal Damnation. See topo below.


Protection 

Bring 9 QDs for the first pitch. The second requires some cams and a double-length runner. I placed a #0.5, #1 and #2 Camalot.



Photos of Disneyland Slideshow Add Photo
Brian somewhere below P1's crux.
Brian somewhere below P1's crux.
Disneyland and surrounding routes.
BETA PHOTO: Disneyland and surrounding routes.
Brian pulling through the overhanging bit at the top of P2.
Brian pulling through the overhanging bit at the t...
Comments on Disneyland Add Comment
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By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The second pitch is NOT yet noted on the local's topo for MB. I'll work on that with the Mountain Shop.

First pitch goes at a tricky, delicate 10b; the second probably goes at 10c.

Second pitch [SPOILER ALERT] is yer basic awesome-shit-awesome sandwich. Great moves off the belay to crossing up n over 30-ish feet of wonky, 5.6 crack choss (easy enough to just run that out ifn youre already confident at leading 10c sport) to and through a beautiful but possibly height-dependent bulge with jugtastic holds on top.