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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Te Dum T 
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Disney Point 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Bein, 1978
Page Views: 4,415
Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on Apr 17, 2006

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A tight shot of the cam while he was hanging on it...

Description 

This pitch is short, but action-filled.

Begin in the open book at the beginning of P2 of Disneyland. At the top of the open book, instead of traversing right for Disneyland, head left. Hand traverse out along the huge flake to the point on good holds, then up and slightly left to a not so good hold (crux). From there, step right and climb easier rock to the top.


Location 

The route is best accessed by climbing the first pitch and a half of Disneyland. If that's taken, it is also possible to climb P1 of Te Dum and traverse across to the right underneath the pointed flake.

Descend by walking off to climber's right.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Disney Point Slideshow Add Photo
This is how it looked while he was hanging  on it.  He had other gear nearby, so it probably would not have been a disaster if it had popped out.
This is how it looked while he was hanging on it....
But he clipped it anyway.  In the past, he slung the point instead of using a cam, but after watching the sling lift off the point in the middle of the crux, I suggested using a cam instead.  (Don't think I mentioned a particular size.  Oops.)
But he clipped it anyway. In the past, he slung t...
The happy team admiring his handiwork.  The camalot is clipped to Tricia's harness.
The happy team admiring his handiwork. The camalo...
Not today.  He prepares to let go.  We've discussed the crappy #1 placement, but he doesn't have a choice now.
Not today. He prepares to let go. We've discusse...
Trying to jam a #1 camalot in to the left of point.
Trying to jam a #1 camalot in to the left of...
In the middle of the hand traverse.  The blue line to the right is a party on P2 of Disneyland.
In the middle of the hand traverse. The blue line...
Now trying to the right of the point.  Still not fitting.  If it had been happening to me, I would have seen this development as an excellent excuse to reverse a few moves to the last good cam and say "take."
Now trying to the right of the point. Still not f...
Jeff Arliss chalking up for the crux.
Jeff Arliss chalking up for the crux.
Somehow, the #1 holds.  I'm holding my breath waiting for a delayed pop, but it doesn't come.
Somehow, the #1 holds. I'm holding my breat...
Gaining the point.  The crux sloper is the faintly orange-colored angled thing in the upper left corner of the photo.
Gaining the point. The crux sloper is the faintly...
Beginning the hand traverse.  He's smiling now...
Beginning the hand traverse. He's smiling now...
Good and pumped by now, he considers the sloper above.  It's not visible while hanging from the point, but he knows where it is from previous experience.  He also knows why they call it a sloper...
Good and pumped by now, he considers the sloper ab...
Comments on Disney Point Add Comment
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By losbill
Aug 14, 2007

Denis, just found this. What an awesome series of photos! Great stuff! What a great story! You are the best! Thanks for sharing, Bill