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Dislocation Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Lovejoy, Bjorklund, Madin, 1971
Page Views: 4,747
Submitted By: Tavis Ricksecker on Jun 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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August leads first pitch of Dislocation Direct

Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on Pine Tree ledge about 30' left of the start to the Dislocation standard route. Climb obvious crack systems straight up to a ledge (optional belay) and follow more nice cracks up and left (where the standard route traverses right) to a belay nearly 60m ropelength up. From here climb a corner to a ledge, a short face section, and another corner to the top. An excellent and mellow adventure.

Protection 

Gear to 2", doubles if doing as two long pitches.


Photos of Dislocation Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris following on the 2nd pitch.
Chris following on the 2nd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ginger leads p2 Dislocation
Ginger leads p2 Dislocation

Comments on Dislocation Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By juggy
From: Lakewood Colorado
Nov 7, 2007

the alt route directly one pitch lower brings you up through a tree, but makes for a great warm up
By Nick Smolinske
Nov 7, 2010

Not sure if this is what juggy meant, but doing the first pitch of dislocation buttress to get to pine tree ledge is a great warmup. Starts with the dihedral that's pretty much exactly where the trail drops you off at the base of the slabs. After that pitch there's a nice little unroped traverse off to climber's left to start dislocation direct.
By Tim H.
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great climb! We started on the Pine Tree Ledge. I would recommend doing it in 3 pitches to stop on the best ledges and limit rope drag.

From the Pine Tree Ledge climb about 70' and stop at the quartz band on a nice ledge. Link 2 and 3 for about a 100' pitch and stop on another nice ledge below broken blocks. P3 is 40' of fun jamming that leads to 3rd class terrain to the walk off trail.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 26, 2012

We just did it in 4 pitches; like Tim's description but we added the first pitch of Dislocation and walked left to the start of Direct. I could have run the last two together but was worried about drag.
By Miguel D
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 17, 2014

We did in three picthes, but I can easily see how two would make it easier. Last part above a short dihedral is pretty much 4th class scramble to the top of the formation
By Sam Joe Carl
Nov 15, 2015

Unable to Dislocate our rope after rapping off. Had to bail off the climb today after inclement weather rolled in sooner than we had expected. Put the rope through the two natural eyelets in the rock at the top of the first pitch. After getting back down to the ledge, we were unable to pull it, and heavy snow and wet conditions prevented us from climbing back up. It's a red white and blue Mammut 60m, and if someone goes out there soon (before it sits out in the elements for too long) and is able to retrieve it, copious amounts of beer will be bought :) My number is 513-833-1878.
By Kari Hreinsson
Sep 5, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is a lot of fun and easily protected. I would say the rating is sandbagged for sure, at least coming from mostly sport climbing ratings I would call this a solid 5.8 for the most part, with perhaps a 5.9 move or two in it.

We started with the first pitch of Dislocation Buttress, and moved left on the ledge to the start of Dislocation Direct, that 5.3/4 rating I would also call into question, unless you're very comfortable with dihedrals.

We did Dislocation Direct in 3 pitches following Tim's advice. First pitch is a fun slabby crack climb onto a large ledge with a hole you can anchor into. Second pitch is super fun, varied climbing with corners, flakes and friction moves, ending on the ledge with the loose blocks (I moved past stuck nut). The third pitch is short and relatively easy (up slightly left of belay), into scramble terrain.

I placed a decent amount of mid-sized nuts as well as mid-sized cams (BD .3 to 3). Brought a BD 4 but never placed. The route is pretty easily protected, but just beware that belays are not bolted, and past the ledge with the hole you can thread there isn't much rapping unless you leave gear or are willing to sling some (potentially questionable) blocks.

We walked off, going straight down the wash to arrive at our backpacks. Just be careful to keep close to the wall on descent, as there is a bit of a notch/ridge on the left side of the main wash that you need to keep to your right.

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