This climb starts right where the swamp slab trail hits the wall. Look for the obvious crack/chimney that extends about 100ft up the wall. That's your first pitch. The route then follows a short traverse left to the next belay. After that its straight up with the exception of a short hand traverse on pitch 4. If you avoid the traverse and head up a seam on the left, it's dislocation direct (5.6). The last pitch is class 4 and then walk/scramble off to the left. Take care at the top!All pitches except the first are short. You could run them together but there would be some rope drag. Hard work getting to the climb but worth the effort.
Excellent trad climb, no problems finding bomber placements in good rock. Belay ledges are well protected also but look out for some doubtful sounding flakes
BETA PHOTO: second half of pitch 1. looking down
|Comments on Dislocation Buttress
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Sep 17, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
7 pitches? Call me crazy but 7 pitches seems a bit excessive.
Regardless, what a fun route! Mostly easy climbing with great gear on all pitches and very roomy belay ledges. The exposure on the hand traverse was exhilarating! I mistakenly passed the hand crack on pitch 5 and went up another hand crack with great jams that was to the left of the route.
Nov 18, 2007
Yeah Marcy 7 pitches does sound way excessive. It has been a long time, but I think I did this route in 4 pitches, certainly no more than 5.
|By Micah C|
Nov 11, 2009
My topo shows 5 pitches.