Disinclination 5.7
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001 |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Aug 9, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Avalon slab. Incline Club and Disinc...
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Description Start in a short right-facing corner, just uphill from Ripcord. This is the same start as for Incline Club (aka Inclination). Climb the corner past 2 bolts to the huge slab above. Angle left and follow bolts up the slab left of Midway crack. Rossiter calls this 5.8, but it seemed easier.
Protection 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The right-facing corner at the start of Disinclina...
| Nickie Kelly near the top of the route. The last ...
| Deanna DeMarco making the final thin moves to the ...
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| Comments on Disinclination |
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By Ivan Rezucha From: Boulder, CO Nov 2, 2003 rating: 5.5
| On a 35 degree and snowing day, this felt easier than East Slab on the Dome, so I'm calling this 5.5. It's a good route for the grade, but no where near 5.8 as it was rated by Rossiter. |
By William McGehee From: Choctaw, OK Jun 25, 2005
| Much more fun than Midway. Clean climbing on a well-bolted slab and you can even toprope it from the rings at the base of the pillar Rossiter describes in his BC guide. Gives you a chance to safely play around on Ripcord as well (minus the rope-stretch)! Good technical moves that force-teach you to learn slab-climbing on granite. Two stars because the start is a little contrived and the route traverses a good bit from start to finish. Rope-drag over the rock at the start can be a pain.~Wm |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 14, 2007 rating: 5.5
| A fun climb with good rock and well-protected. In the scale of this rock and this canyon, I think it is an exemplary climb of quality at the low difficulty range. Would never get a 5.7 in the Flatirons, but might in a more 'modern' scale. |
By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO Aug 13, 2008
| This climb can be lead on trad and makes for excellent practice protecting thin slabs with potential runouts (depending on how good your gear placement technique is). It certainly increased my interest in the route. |
By Ben Cassedy From: Denver, CO Sep 18, 2010 rating: 5.6
| You're kind of all over this big rock face. Good position and exposure - more fun than you would think. |
By James Hulett From: Boulder, Colorado Jul 4, 2012 rating: 5.6 PG13
| Didn't feel like 5.7. |
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